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Routes in Narrows, Redstone, McClure Pass

Avocado Gully T WI3-4 M2
Bulldog Creek Dog Walk WI4+
Cold Heaven T WI4+
Crystal Visions T WI4-5
Dancing in the Moonlight WI4- M2
Dirty Linen Gully T WI2+ M2
Drool, The WI4-5
Hays Creek Falls T WI2
Marble Falls T WI4
Redstone Pillar T WI4
Redstone Slabs WI5
Stoney Fest T WI5+ M5 R
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice, 400 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,284 total, 27/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Dec 7, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

Classic moderate. South of Carbondale about 13 miles. West side of road (CO Hwy 133). Parking on East side. Short approach can be as little as 5 minutes through the woods. This can be a rock climb in lean years.

P1. WI2- 100 foot 1st pitch. May be just snow.

P2. WI3 80 foot 2nd pitch quite aesthetic to a tree.

P3. WI3 130 foot 3rd pitch - you can go straight up the more steep line or to the right in a sort of gully. Topping out can be mixed in drier conditions. Fixed anchor on right.

Rap the route. Fun.

Protection

Ice screws, 2 ropes.
Bill Mustard
Silt, Colorado
Bill Mustard   Silt, Colorado
Anybody know the conditions for this year? Seems like it should be decent. Dec 30, 2013
Ryan N
Bellingham, WA
Ryan N   Bellingham, WA
The pullout is pretty obvious on the left at almost 10 miles from Carbondale. Look for a well packed trail on the right. Approach is about 3 min long. First "pitch" can be soloed but watch for thin mixed at top. The route is pretty obvious, but don't take the WI3 rating as easy. I've seen it in pretty lean conditions and goes in at a solid WI4. It's also in a gully, so it gets little sun and is quite cold. Oct 13, 2012
funkyicemonkey
Colorado
 
funkyicemonkey   Colorado
 
WI3? Really, not in thin conditions. Be cautious, this is no Spiral Staircase. Feb 21, 2012
coop Best
Glenwood Springs, CO
coop Best   Glenwood Springs, CO
70m works great with no downclimbing. Jan 31, 2011
Chris Plesko
Westminster, CO
 
Chris Plesko   Westminster, CO
 
We got down with a single 60m. It involved a short downclimb mostly on snow on the top rap. The 2nd rap just makes it on stretch. Be careful and tie knots in the end of the ropes. Jan 29, 2011
Meredith DB
Boulder, CO
  WI3 M1
Meredith DB   Boulder, CO
  WI3 M1
Excellent moderate route. After climbing, you may want to soak in the hot springs on the river just across the road. Look for the small rock walls that define the warm pools. Apr 26, 2007
D Rubingh
Englewood, CO
D Rubingh   Englewood, CO
Climbed Avocado Gully on 2/17/06. Description by Julian Smith on 1/8/06 pretty much sums it up: Bottom is mostly snow with a little bit of ice, second pitch is thin at the top (crampons skating on rock out to the right) and third pitch is fat. Feb 21, 2006
Bryan Gall
New Castle, CO
Bryan Gall   New Castle, CO
Ran up Avocado on Saturday; it was in decent shape with all the warm weather. The warm probably helps the gully receive moisture. Other things in Redstone are hit and miss. Redstone Pillar: looks fat. Drool: in. False Drool: no way. Hays Creek: not happening. Crystal River Slabs: wet rock. Didn't go to Marble falls but the sun hits the window on top, so educated guess says no.... Coal Creek: crazy things are happening in Coal Creek, with a little more cold and time it could be a wonderland of thin pillars. Jan 31, 2005
Avocado Gully is not fully formed. There appears to be a TV sized block perched at the top of the second pitch. This hazard could ice into position or... Dec 11, 2001