Type: Ice, 1000 ft (303 m), 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: discovered by Lou Dawson and Chris Landry in the 1970s
Page Views: 2,452 total · 27/month
Shared By: Hayden Carpenter on Dec 23, 2016
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

The climb follows a river gorge and consists of five main ice flows (climbed in six or seven roped pitches), separated by stretches of river walking and ice bouldering over short steps.

A 70 meter rope or double ropes are useful.

Each flow has its own character, from wild ice mushrooms to steep climbing, at WI 3 to 4. The final “Glory” flow (about 80-90 meters) is the crux of route and the longest and most sustained of the five at WI 4+.

The gorge system branches in a few locations, and there are at least one or two side ice flows that enter the main river, but stick to the main river to get to the top.

The climb is spring fed and receives little direct sunlight, so it’s a good early season bet. Avalanche danger seems pretty low, as the gully winds around a lot, and the rim is mostly mature trees.

A word of caution: this climb is big and remote. Expect a full day, even with a pre-dawn start. You’ll likely start and finish in the dark.

Location Suggest change

Approach: park at the gate on Avalanche Creek Road (closed in winter), and ski or hike up the road until just before it crosses Bulldog Creek. Take the old mining road on the left, and follow it east along the north side Bulldog Creek until it dead ends at the collapsed miners’ cabin. If you’re on skis, it is easier to leave them here.

Cross the creek just upstream from the cabin, and pick up a faint trail/old mining road (read: mostly bushwhacking) heading upstream (east) on the south side. Follow the trail until you can see the first pitch of the ice flow (north branch of creek, where it splits), which is on the north side of Bulldog Creek. Descend the steep river bank after passing an open mine shaft (provides good shelter to gear up/de-gear in bad weather), and cross river again to the base of the climb.

Expect around 2 hours 30 minutes for approach, depending on snowpack.

Descent:rap the main flows, and downclimb the shorter sections.

From the top of the final pitch, it’s possible to hike up the ridge to the west, follow the scree slide down to where it cliffs out, and make a single rappel from a solid tree, followed by a little downclimbing and hiking back to river, to avoid making a V-thread on the final ice flow. This method probably isn’t any faster, but it's another option.

Once below the top flow, most rappels can be done off trees near the top of each major flow. Some trees require a little scrambling to reach. For the final rap to the base of the climb, sling the large boulder in the middle of the river (a single, 70-meter rope just reaches).

It takes seven or eight rappels to descend.

Protection Suggest change

Ice screws, a few small cams, a V-thread kit, and 15 meters of rappel cord for the last rappel.