Type: Trad, Ice
FA: Unknown 70's (Shea, Dawson, Kennedy??)
Page Views: 6,393 total · 25/month
Shared By: Reese Martin on Feb 28, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This is a Colorado mega-classic. This is the Coors beer waterfall.

The left side of the falls is a bit easier than the steeper right side. A lot of water is running underneath & the top of the falls is usually very thin & exciting. More than one person has broken through & had to chop their way out. A single 60 meter rope will get you down.

Protection Suggest change

Usually you can climb Marble Falls with 4 to 6 long ice screws. The "window" of thin ice at the top may require a runout.

The Approach Suggest change

Take CO Hwy 133 towards McClure Pass from Carbondale to the Marble road (left). Go 4 miles toward Marble to a bridge & windsock, you will be able to see the falls on the right. Cross the bridge, take the 1st left into the subdivision of vacation homes, go about 1/2 mile to a right, take it up hill to an open gate. Park discreetly here. Walk up the road about 200 yards to a left turn, you should see a stomped out trail on the right. 15 minutes up the trail is Marble Falls.

Per mike d: Terry, the caretaker of the roads and land in the area, informed us that there is only one allowed way to access the falls, and he graciously led us to it. He gave permission to update this site with the express purpose of preventing people from driving aimlessly around the local residences, parking in the wrong places, and trespassing on private property.

So: after crossing the bridge (labeled 3A on the map) and taking the first left (labeled Milton Way on the map) into the residential area, take the first right (labeled Holland Drive on the map). There is currently a wooden sign on a tree that says "Private Road--Keep Out" and a big yellow sign further up with something like "DRIVE SLOW." Ignore the former, and proceed up this road to where it makes a sharp left (labeled Deer Trail on the map). At this turn, there is a plowed pullout on the right with room for 3 or 4 cars. This is the only allowed parking for the falls. The trail is on the right (west) side of the pullout. Hike 10-15 minutes up the trail to the ice.

When driving through the residential area, please drive slowly, park only in the designated area, hike only on the designated trail, be courteous to anyone you meet, and leave if you are asked to do so by a local. The parking and trail are on private land, but we are allowed to use them, for the time being.

Toprope Protection Suggest change

There are 3+ fixed pins & webbing anchor on the right at the top. It's a bit back from the top of the climb, so bring a cordette or long slings for TR. There is no easy way to get to the top of Marble Falls. Lead it.