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Routes in Scottish Gullies

"between Stubby & Oompa Loompa" T WI4 R
Ach Mon T,TR WI3-4
Aye Laddy! WI4
By Gully T,TR WI2
Dizzy Curtain TR WI4
Oompa Loompa T WI4-5
Popstar T,TR WI3
Stubby T WI4
Sunscreen TR WI4+
UK Garage T WI3
Type: Trad, Ice, 100 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 699 total, 4/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Feb 13, 2004
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is nice gully that feels sort of Scottish just below the area of the Scottish Gullies downstream from the lower bridge in the Ouray Ice Park. Perhaps neglected (in my experience) but nonetheless a nice alternative for those seeking easier, beginner lines like By Gully if most of the close to the bridge routes are occupied.

Find this by dropping downstream from the Scottish gullies (By Gully, Ach Mon) perhaps another 50ft (part way across a small meadow) to the 4th to last climb before the 5 fingers area. There is a bit of exposed rock near Stubby with 2 bolts close enough for anchors or you can use the anchors of Ach Mon.

You may find significantly-less-than vertical ice here. Stroll up this climb practicing your good footwork. If this is too gentle, you can move just downstream & fire up the steeper prow to the R. A proper stroll for those who do not wish to tax the upper body.

Protection

Screws.

Toprope Protection

There are 2 bolts above & downstream above Stubby or upstream above Ach Mon. Or better yet, use a couple ice screws just above the route when things are busy here.

Photos

Andy P.
Wisconsin
Andy P.   Wisconsin
Climbed 1/17/14. Fun, very slabby route. A directional can be placed to the climbers left, allowing a funky mixed climb which is still easy - but note that the lowering through the trees is tricky! Jan 19, 2014