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Routes in Scottish Gullies

"between Stubby & Oompa Loompa" T WI4 R
Ach Mon T,TR WI3-4
Aye Laddy! WI4
By Gully T,TR WI2
Dizzy Curtain TR WI4
Oompa Loompa T WI4-5
Popstar T,TR WI3
Stubby T WI4
Sunscreen TR WI4+
UK Garage T WI3
Type: Trad, Ice
FA: unknown
Page Views: 560 total · 3/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Feb 13, 2004
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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This is steep curtain that does not always touch down just below the area of the Scottish Gullies downstream from the lower bridge in the Ouray Ice Park. It is in a section of short climbs, perhaps 4 pillars here. Perhaps neglected (in my experience) but nonetheless a pumpy quickie if most of the close-to-the-bridge routes are occupied. If chandeliered as we found it, it is probably a better TR.

Find this by dropping downstream from the Scottish gullies (By Gully, Ach Mon) perhaps another 100 feet (part way across a small meadow) to the 3rd to last climb before the 5 fingers area. There is a bit of exposed rock near Stubby with 2 bolts close enough for anchors.

You may find a lower angle bit of ice before this 30 foot curtain. The exposure to sun can leave this climb a bit more fragile than its neighbors. It does not always touch down. If it doesn't, carefully hop on to this curtain and dance to the top.


A few screws perhaps.

Toprope Protection

There are 2 bolts above & downstream above Stubby.


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