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Routes in Pencil & Eraser area aka Belfry

Eraser, The T WI4
Esmerelda T WI4 M6-7
Guano T M5
Middle Curtain WI5-
Misery T M8
Pencil, The T WI4+
Quasimodo T WI5- M8- PG13
Svengali T M9
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, Mixed
FA: Rich Purnell, 2000
Page Views: 1,100 total · 5/month
Shared By: rich purnell on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

Left of the Pencil in the Belfy, the small area above Spiral Staircase. ...hard...Stein pulls.

Protection

4 bolts...you may think one is run out, but trust yourself and your belayer.

Photos

Has anyone ever climbed these mixed routes in the summer in rock shoes and bare hands?? Just curious as to how hard they would be without ice gear. Perhaps this route is 5.15! Aug 19, 2002
rich purnell  
 
No, not yet, but I tell you some of those mixed lines have holds that would be almost impossible to hold onto with bare hands- very small. if you want we can go there (Vail) together to find out as I am very curious now. Aug 24, 2002
rich purnell  
 
Who is this anyway? I think I know who...mixed climbings grades can't at all be compared to rock route grades they are just way to different. Although it would be nice to compare M grades to 5.grades by climbing confirmed graded rock routes with tools and crampons but people wouldn't go for that and it doesn't make sense why compare they are dif. sports. Just cause' an M grade is at the high end scale 'say M10' doesn't mean that it is can be compared to a 5.15. That only states that it is 3 grades harder than say an M7. In M grading we don't do M10b or 10c etc. we just go from number to number and it's open ended with bone freezing coldness. Sep 2, 2002

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