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Routes in Pencil & Eraser area aka Belfry

Eraser, The T WI4
Esmerelda T WI4 M6-7
Guano T M5
Middle Curtain WI5-
Misery T M8
Pencil, The T WI4+
Quasimodo T WI5- M8- PG13
Svengali T M9
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Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice
FA: Pete Takeda
Page Views: 2,840 total · 16/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Mar 4, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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16 Opinions

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Description

Route is right of Misery in the Belfry, the small area above Spiral Staircase. Great route to be introduced to roof mixed climbing. Also at the end you climb around the curtain....

Protection

4 bolts, 2 screws.

Addendum: Per Erik Werner: as of 11/20/11, the 3rd bolt is ready to pull out of the rock.
I thought this route was called Bats, lots of fun nonetheless. Dec 5, 2004
David Carter
Salt Lake City
David Carter   Salt Lake City
As of 1/11/2015, the 3rd bolt has not been replaced and remains (potentially) hazardous. The bolt casing is visible, and both the bolt and casing wiggle - this is not apparent when climbing up from below as the bolt faces downward. As commented by Erik W. in 2011 - caution advised. Jan 12, 2015
Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
  WI4 M6-7
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
  WI4 M6-7
This route is short but packs a lot of fun! Really good when the ice is fat, as the curtain is at least a body length wide and you get to do a sweet, pumpy traverse. Bolts seemed okay, but I didn't test any. Feb 4, 2015

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