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Routes in Pencil & Eraser area aka Belfry

Eraser, The T WI4
Esmerelda T WI4 M6-7
Guano T M5
Middle Curtain WI5-
Misery T M8
Pencil, The T WI4+
Quasimodo T WI5- M8- PG13
Svengali T M9
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice
FA: Rich Purnell
Page Views: 1,757 total, 10/month
Shared By: rich purnell on Nov 20, 2003
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This is the 3rd route to grace "The Belfry" wall (aka upper Spiral Staircase area). This route is the center most route between Svengali and Misery. Insanely fun climbing on steep jugs and very solid rock to a somewhat hard exit on the ice smear, anchor off the eraser anchors above.

This route actually has 3 exits on to the ice: straight up to the small pillar at top (hard), out right to the ice dagger or out left to the Pencil w/a lot of ice to finish. Each is a tad harder or [easier] depending on which way you take it.

Protection

4 bolts & maybe 1 cam for the horizontal crack just before the ice smear.

Photos

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