Type: Trad, Ice, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 9,974 total · 43/month
Shared By: Chris Zeller on Jan 12, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


95 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This climb can be done in three pitches or as three separate climbs. Each one can be toproped individually, or a lead climber can escape from the top of each pitch.

The first pitch is the longest and ascends three separate vertical steps of a broad flow with many variations. Each step is 10-20 feet high for a total of over 100 foot diagonal distance. The last of these steps ascends a narrow 70-80 degree runnel to the anchor. The lower pitch can easily accommodate two parties and a thin hanging curtain on the right hand side contains some hard mixed climbing when conditions are right.

A short hike up the creek from the top of the first pitch brings you to the second pitch, a broad curtain that can accommodate at least three teams with the climbs becoming progressively difficult from right to left. The main line ascends a 70-80 degree pitch of fat ice 30-40 feet high. The center section sometimes has thick free-hanging pillars. Some harder mixed climbing on gently overhanging rock with good pick placements and dangling ice forms on the extreme left of the climb. Bolts (often partially covered by ice) form an anchor at the top of the right-most pitch. Use trees set 10-20 yards back from the lip, or screws to protect the rest of the curtain.

The final pitch traverses two-three low angle steps above. These pitches are great for beginner leads or make for a perfect finish to extend the length of the climb.

Descent: You can escape or access each pitch by following obvious trails to the right of the climb. These trails make an easy ascent for a toprope setup.

Protection

Screws, some rock gear can be useful on optional mixed lines on the edges of the route.

Toprope Protection

The first and second pitches have good solid bolt anchors at the top and bottom with trees for backup. Bring 5ft slings or double length runners and locking biners. The first pitch requires two ropes or belay from the top.

Photos