Type: Trad, Ice, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,030 total · 28/month
Shared By: Chris Zeller on Jan 12, 2001
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This climb forms a 1st pitch 30 feet, broad 70-90 degree flow with several variations. The right hand side holds thick ice interrupted by a small ledge or two for placing gear. The left hand side sports a thin section of nearly vertical ice. Some mixed climbing can be had on the cliff to the extreme left hand side of the flow.

There is a second pitch above which often forms a fun WI2+, 60', pitch. It had a bush rappel which was improved to a 2 bolt rap.

Descent: Scramble down rocks to the right of the climb. P2 has 2 or 3 sets of anchor bolts.

Protection

Screws. A few stubbies may be useful for some lines.

Toprope Protection

The 3-bolt/chain anchor in the boulder has been removed. This anchor was in terrible condition and needed to be replaced. This assessment was based on many climbers who I have talked to and also my personal knowledge of anchor systems. A new 2 bolt camouflaged chain anchor has been added as of 7-19-04. The location of the new anchor is to the right and is attached to a 8' high rock buttress. Another bolt was added next to an existing bolt and chains were installed as well. This new anchor is above the left side of Mickey's 1st pitch.

Pitch 2 now sports 2 nice 2 bolt anchors.

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Photos

Mickey's 1st pitch right side.
Mickey's 1st pitch right side.
 1
Dissecting ice.
Dissecting ice.
 3
When Mickey's Big Mouth's upper pitch was little known.
When Mickey's Big Mouth's upper pitch was littl…
 1
A window of freedom.
A window of freedom.
 1
2/19/06.
2/19/06.
 1
Mark Bower on the 2nd pitch in fat conditions.
Mark Bower on the 2nd pitch in fat conditions.
 1
Mike rappin' after the 1st ascent of "Moonshine".
Mike rappin' after the 1st ascent of "Moonshine".
 0
Fun mixed climb at the left edge of the upper falls. The climber's left set of anchors are good for TRing this.
Fun mixed climb at the left edge of the upper f…
 0
First pitch, fat ice in 2007.
First pitch, fat ice in 2007.
 0
Nice ice job!
Nice ice job!
 0
Heading up the 2nd pitch of Mickey's (2/1/07).
Heading up the 2nd pitch of Mickey's (2/1/07).
 0
Sat, Dec 11, 2004. It was 60 degrees outside.
Sat, Dec 11, 2004. It was 60 degrees outside.
 0

11 Comments

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Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
There is a second pitch above which forms when there is actually water draining in this gully. It is pictured in the 1st picture. Interesting descent off a slung bush or V-thread (now replaced with 2, 2 bolt anchors). Ice gets thin at the top. Perhaps 60 feet. Nov 7, 2002
Matt Ledges
Matt Ledges  
Had a surprisingly good afternoon here today. It's about as good as this climb ever gets. While it rings in at about 2+, there's a great mixed route to the left with several variations, just a veneer of ice for 25-30 ft, that ranks at a M5. Recommended before it gets too warm. As of today, this is the only bit of climbable ice in the canyon. Jan 12, 2003
Patrick McGaugh
Patrick McGaugh  
Just got back from doing the second pitch. It was a little leaner than in the photo but all the fresh snow kept it exciting. The first pitch is growing but it looked too fragile for me. This was my first lead so I have no clue what the grade is, I just know that it was fun. Feb 7, 2003
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
For clarification purposes: Mickey's is not a "stepped flow" as AC describes it. It is 2 short pitches separated by perhaps a 100m of walking in a gully with an easy boulder move in between the pitches. Further, above P2, honestly, there has not been enough ice to "leave a screw" leave a screw. I believe AC is mistakenly referring to Coors Lite. Finally, after walking perhaps another 1/2 mile above P2 in search of more ice, there is not much up there. Walking down after P2 is not reasonable option. Feb 24, 2003
Brian T.
Brian T.  
Someone stole the rap rings from the top of the 2nd pitch. My only question is WHY? Heres some advice: sell your gear and take up golf. Thanks Mar 3, 2003
Brian T.
Brian T.  
At the top of the 2nd pitch is a new chain anchor to lower from. To find it, look up and left (behind the big rappel bush) at the top of the flow. Aug 6, 2003
percious
Bear Creek, CO
  WI3-
percious   Bear Creek, CO
  WI3-
There is a fixed pin on the second pitch right hand side which is only available in early season. This is a great pitch for a beginning leader. Jan 11, 2008
Mark McConnell
Mark McConnell  
Where'd the pipe go?

I finally got up there tonight to see what was going on and noticed that the farmed ice was gone... anyone know why? I suspect the pipe helped the rest of the flow to form so large in the past few years. Jan 7, 2009
Dustin Clelen
Boulder, CO
Dustin Clelen   Boulder, CO
Does anyone have any more information on the mixed route just left of the second pitch? It's pretty cool, and fairly well protected (bolts). Also great as a TR due to some conveniently placed bolts above. Any names or ratings? Jan 21, 2010
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
Might be Moonshine, ~M4-5. Jan 21, 2010
Craghead
Craghead  
First ever TR ice solos for me on this flow today. As it turns out, I was lucky to meet another TR soloist to give me some pointers on how best to utilize all my fancy new gear. Thanks again, Brian. Currently, the ice is detaching from the rock at the top of both sides of the flow and is hollow sounding. Didn't exactly inspire a lot of confidence. Jan 9, 2015