Mickey's Big Mouth
Avg: 1.9 from 40 votes
|Type:||Trad, Ice, 100 ft, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||5,890 total · 28/month|
|Shared By:||Chris Zeller on Jan 12, 2001|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionThis climb forms a 1st pitch 30 feet, broad 70-90 degree flow with several variations. The right hand side holds thick ice interrupted by a small ledge or two for placing gear. The left hand side sports a thin section of nearly vertical ice. Some mixed climbing can be had on the cliff to the extreme left hand side of the flow.
There is a second pitch above which often forms a fun WI2+, 60', pitch. It had a bush rappel which was improved to a 2 bolt rap.
Descent: Scramble down rocks to the right of the climb. P2 has 2 or 3 sets of anchor bolts.
Toprope ProtectionThe 3-bolt/chain anchor in the boulder has been removed. This anchor was in terrible condition and needed to be replaced. This assessment was based on many climbers who I have talked to and also my personal knowledge of anchor systems. A new 2 bolt camouflaged chain anchor has been added as of 7-19-04. The location of the new anchor is to the right and is attached to a 8' high rock buttress. Another bolt was added next to an existing bolt and chains were installed as well. This new anchor is above the left side of Mickey's 1st pitch.
Pitch 2 now sports 2 nice 2 bolt anchors.