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Routes in Little Eiger area - ice

Coors Light Exit Crack T WI3- M3-4
Coors Lite T WI2-3
Maharaja T M7
Mickey's Big Mouth T WI2-3
Red Stripe WI3+ M1
Type: Trad, Mixed, Ice
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,111 total · 20/month
Shared By: Furthermore on Dec 16, 2004
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

This is a nice short mixed variation on the far left side of the "second pitch" of Coors Light. Usually there is a short ice pillar on the left side of this second pitch ice curtain. Climb this short pillar (WI3-), climb over a small overhanging ledge (M4+), and then climb left up to a chimney to exit (M2).

Protection

A screw, some limited rock gear.

Toprope Protection

Slings.

Photos

The Blueprint Part Dank
FEMA Region VIII
The Blueprint Part Dank   FEMA Region VIII
Hurry! Hurry! This super fun variation to Coors Lite is in fat right now. In my opinion, it was a bit more difficult and hence more fun than the actual second pitch of Coors Lite. I soloed the ice pitches on Saturday and saw this variation. I climbed up to the top of the little pillar but decided I didn't want to commit to the stemming without a partner and gear. So I downclimbed and did the actual second pitch of Coors Lite.

But this variation was calling me, so I found a partner and racked up with a couple pieces of rock gear, and boy was I glad I did. This felt like a little 20 foot slice of real alpine ice climbing.

I was able to place a 16 cm screw at the base of the little pillar, a #3 Master Cam in the rock at the top of the pillar, then a 13 cm screw in the ice runnel after stepping over into the chimney. Feb 10, 2014
Chris Plesko
Westminster, CO
  WI3 M4 PG13
Chris Plesko   Westminster, CO
  WI3 M4 PG13
Fun short pitch. Some stems, some torques, some thin ice. A little harder than it looks from below, all the holds are downsloping and the rock is a bit chossy. There can be ice or turf on the topout. Led it in snowy weather so I had to dig for everything.

Gear notes:
Good pieces I had were 0.5 C4, #1 C4, yellow Mastercam. No good screws. Could maybe place a 10 or 13 if you had more ice. Protect your second with a screw on the plateau if you use the bolt anchors or just walk back a ways to a tree more in line with the pitch. Feb 5, 2011