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Routes in The Appendage

Bulge, The S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Butterface S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crisco Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Edge, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Full Appendage S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lead S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ledge, The S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Only Wimps Top-rope the Bulge S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Knezek
Page Views: 1,999 total, 13/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 16, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


65 Opinions

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Description

This is the right line on the left set of anchors. Fun jams and good positions will get you to the present first bolt, which will clip with some muscle. Swing out onto the west face and clip the last bolt and head for the chains.

Again, too short for more than 1 star but better than Lead.

Protection

4 bolts plus the chains.

Photos

Alex Temus
Small Town, USA
  5.7
Alex Temus   Small Town, USA
  5.7
Climbing only to the left of the corner wasn't as good, the holds and moves seem awfully contrived and I'd consider this as just a variation. The 5.7 version that winds around both sides of the arete with the long reach to the left is the best option, IMO. Sep 5, 2017
Dela Rig
5.7
Dela Rig  
5.7
Not even close to 5.9... 5.7 at the most. May 10, 2015
Danny Cardoza
Provo, UT
 
Danny Cardoza   Provo, UT
 
My favorite lead in this area. TR isn't really doable with rope dragging over the edge (haha) and it just pulls you over onto "Lead." All in all, a fun climb--we'll have to come back and lead the crack on gear, looks like a lot of fun. Aug 24, 2014
Tim Moore  
 
Much closer to a 5.9 if you avoid the right wall that I am sure is off the right. Kinda weird finish wish it would've kept going up the face. Apr 8, 2014
Dakota Belliston
Spanish Fork, UT
  5.9
Dakota Belliston   Spanish Fork, UT
  5.9
Watching people climb this route yesterday EVERYONE cheats to the side instead of following straight up the face. Thus everyone kept saying it was easy. However if you follow the route straight up the face and don't stray to the sides this route can be justified as a 5.9 . Don't cheat this route or you'll cut your fun !!! Oct 4, 2012
OldManRiver
Cottonwood Heights, UT
 
OldManRiver   Cottonwood Heights, UT
 
I really like the traverse 3/4 up to the jug. Interesting twist for a route of this grade. Nice route! Aug 26, 2012
Christopher Sorensen
Provo, UT
  5.8-
Christopher Sorensen   Provo, UT
  5.8-
Yeah, that's what I meant. Thanks. Aug 4, 2009
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
If you're referring to the anchors between The Edge and Only Wimps Toprope the Bulge, they're for the obvious trad line/chimney thing between those two routes. It's 5.3 or 5.5 or something. I don't remember. Something easy. The trad lines on The Appendage are all pretty fun and worth doing. Aug 3, 2009
Christopher Sorensen
Provo, UT
  5.8-
Christopher Sorensen   Provo, UT
  5.8-
What are the ring anchors at the top for? Aug 2, 2009
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
 
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
 
The explanation involves two seriously injured climbers and threats from local law enforcement. Ask Darren if you truly want to know. Jul 17, 2009
Sunny-D
SLC, Utah
Sunny-D   SLC, Utah
I am trying to figure out why there are bolts six inches from an easy to protect crack? I climbed it and placed bomber gear all the way up the crack... Jul 17, 2009
Alma Madsen
New York, NY
 
Alma Madsen   New York, NY
 
When I climb this I don't touch the wall on the right. If you are wanting closer to a 9 feel, I suggest doing this, otherwise it's definitely closer to a 7. Jun 15, 2009
Darren Knezek
  5.7
Darren Knezek  
  5.7
It was originally rated 5.9, but a huge bulge feature you had to pull over became loose. I went up with a crowbar and now that feature is on the ground. The route became considerably easier and in the new RC guidebook will be 5.7. Aug 5, 2008
Lee Jensen
  5.7
Lee Jensen  
  5.7
Having led this route several times now I have a hard time understanding the 5.9 rating. Either it is contrived (only climb to the left on the face) or it is way overrated. If you use the holds on the right and then transition over to the left for the last bolt around the arete the route is super easy and you are never more than an arms reach from a bolt. I would suggest 5.7. Am I missing something here? Aug 5, 2008
Good first sport lead for someone... May 21, 2008
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
I agree that this climb is better than Lead. Some big, fun moves. Mar 25, 2008