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Routes in The Appendage

Bulge, The S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Butterface S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crisco Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Edge, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Full Appendage S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lead S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ledge, The S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Only Wimps Top-rope the Bulge S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 253 total · 20/month
Shared By: Alex Temus on Jun 24, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Nice jaunt up the double crack system starting just right of "The Bulge" and veering right, halfway up, toward the chains for "Full Appendage". The left crack starts at hands and widens to off-width before the roof while the right side stays more consistent at small fingers. The two cracks are less than 2 feet apart so can easily use both.

A fun 5.8 variation is at the top if you decide to say left at the roof and jam/lieback the fist crack. Once over the roof, just traverse right about 8 feet to meet up with the original route at the nearest chains above "Full Appendage".

The route can be done as a chimney, as a proper jam-fest, as more of a face climb, or a combo of all three. Take your pick!

Location

Hop in the chimney directly right of "The Bulge"

Protection

Anything from brass offsets to a #5 Camalot, seriously just pick an assortment of about 4 or 5 pieces, and it'll probably work. (Save a #3 for the end if you do the 5.8 roof variation)

A couple extendable draws are nice, especially if placing pro in both cracks, or if placing anything in the 5.8 roof finish and traversing.

Photos

Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
Pretty much anyone who has climbed in Rock Canyon for any length of time has climbed this. Jun 25, 2017
Brock Jones
Provo, UT
  5.6
Brock Jones   Provo, UT
  5.6
I've always wondered why there was no route info for this one on MP, since it's pretty easy to that there are anchors up top, thanks for adding it! You can climb this in a variety of ways, but if you go the easiest route and grab the huge holds it's 5.easy. Aug 3, 2017

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