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Routes in The Appendage

Bulge, The S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Butterface S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crisco Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Double Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Edge, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Full Appendage S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lead S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ledge, The S,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Only Wimps Top-rope the Bulge S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, TR, 35 ft
FA: Knezek
Page Views: 3,784 total, 25/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 16, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


73 Opinions

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Description

The right line on the right set of anchors. 6 bolts that will pull at your tendons. Very fun route, very pumpy. Length wasn't too bad, but what hurt this route is that you can use the right wall, in fact, it is a pain in the a$$ to not use that right wall, but that right wall hurts (lessens) the climb. The finish is also weird, with a very painful (sliced into my finger, painful) crack hold at the 6th bolt.

Protection

6 bolts on the way to the chains.
joenathan97
  5.11b
joenathan97  
  5.11b
The hardest part was definitely trying to keep all my weight to the left. The crux for me was going for the 5th bolt. Definitely will be coming back to redpoint the bulge. Mar 13, 2016
zoso
 
zoso  
 
Thanks.
I needed that.
My point is that the crag is quartzite. May 27, 2014
slim    
quartzite is metamorphosed sandstone. really slick limestone is just really slick limestone. May 27, 2014
zoso
 
zoso  
 
Very slick limestone is quartzite.

Just an fyi. May 26, 2014
Tim Moore
  5.11c
Tim Moore  
  5.11c
The route is getting much harder with more and more people on the bottom especially as people climb it it so much. It's very slick limestone. A great pumpy route and using the edges are great to help with footwork. A tough little sequence from the last two bolts that is definitely the crux. No way to cheat around it as well. A fun little dyno near the bottom as well. May 26, 2014
Aaron Shields
Lehi, UT
  5.11b/c
Aaron Shields   Lehi, UT
  5.11b/c
There's no reason to try and stem off the wall if you use the gritty slopers and holds on the blunt arete (left) and the horns on the sharper arete (right). That makes for a great, powerful sequence and is way easier than hanging off the right side. Aug 2, 2013
Nich Cloward
American Fork
  5.11b
Nich Cloward   American Fork
  5.11b
Wow! Pumpy! Stay off the right wall for more of a challenge. It seems that getting the sequence down is the key to this wall. Getting through the first bit to a nice rest is tough, but pumps you out fast so that making the second half much harder due to a couple crimps before another nice rest. I couldn't stop thinking about this route for about a week after my first top-rope attempt. I topped out but it took quite awhile. Aug 26, 2012
Canyon Copa  
 
This will pump you out in a matter of minutes. Really solid route with irregular holds and balancy moves as it tries to throw you off to the right. May 29, 2012
Thomas Holmes
Utah
  5.11c
Thomas Holmes   Utah
  5.11c
Tough for the grade, and one of the best... Mar 13, 2012
BJB
Texas
 
BJB   Texas
 
I rarely go back to routes, but i've gone back and done this twice in less than a week, each time staying until it gets too dark for me to keep working it. There is just a really cool assortment of holds and moves on this route that you don't really find on others. There are sloper holds, arete slapping, a couple of crimps, a lie back crack, an undercling and the namesake bulge. I think it's a killer route. Really hard for an 11.b but a blast to do. I've done all the mountain project classics in RC and I think this is one of the most fun i've been on. Aug 3, 2011
I sneezed on the right wall...am I still ok? Mar 12, 2009
I'm going to do this route and put my foot on the wall to the right the whole way up. Oct 21, 2008
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
I think this is a super classic route. Big moves, big holds, big grunting noises as you try not to peel off... Fun! Aug 11, 2008
KipHenrie
Farmington, utah
  5.11c
KipHenrie   Farmington, utah
  5.11c
hardest 11b i've ever done. i got it gasping at the top with streaming beta from my partner. man this thing is technical and requires some wide moves. the top 3 bolts is all the business. absolute must do. using the right wall for stemming is definitely off. Nov 27, 2007
esallen
Utah / Nevada
  5.11b
esallen   Utah / Nevada
  5.11b
The Bulge is a great route. Short, powerful, well-protected, and fun. To each his own I guess.

Eric Feb 9, 2006
I wasn't too clear. What I was trying to say, was that it is hard to not use that wall during the beginning sequence. The angles force you to the right and it is actually more difficult to try to keep off of that wall, than it is to climb it. When I look at a cliff, I climb it with what I have at my disposal. It is not "natural" to say, "Don't use that wall, don't stem, or ignore every third handhold." Here is the cliff climb it. I understand that Darren's "line" is to not use it, but it just isn't natural. Oct 26, 2005
rx_7addict
  5.11b
rx_7addict  
  5.11b
Anon was right. The route was established based on the side wall not being included. Climb straight up the bulge. Oct 26, 2005
i dont get what you mean by "right wall". Stemming is off on this route. Oct 13, 2005