Type: Sport, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 7,360 total · 45/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 2, 2005
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route

321 Opinions

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AKA: Broken Face. Just left of Private Idaho is this face that is easily top-roped, after climbing Private Idaho. Simple straight-forward C of R climbing. A bit flaky.


Bolts, chain anchor.
Dave Clawson
Boulder, CO
Dave Clawson   Boulder, CO
This route has recently been bolted and is now a well protected sport climb. Jun 5, 2007
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
This route was listed as "Leftmost 5.7R" in the old Forkash guidebook. It felt pretty easy for 5.9. I am sure it would be a different experience on lead without the bolts. The face is still a little dirty, but I am sure it will clean up with the heavy traffic the route is seeing.
Jun 19, 2007
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
I'd led it a few years back prior to the new bolts. Felt the same (difficulty wise) as it did last weekend...around 5.7+ or so. Fun route. Welcome upgraded addition to the wall. Good anchor location too, as it doesn't interfere with folks on Private Idaho. Should take some heat off the standard routes folks get busy on there. A long sling on the second bolt will help a tad with drag as a shorter quick draw tends to pin the rope to the rock right of the little bulge of rock there. Nice job, Dave! Jun 19, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
As previously reported. This route has now been bolted by Dave Bingham and has 7 bolts and chain anchors. Great rock and well protected.

Susan Aug 14, 2007
Ogden, Utah
PhotoDaveM70   Ogden, Utah
5.9 is a bit high - feels more like a 5.8-. Lots of excellent holds - a great route for a first time lead climber. Aug 16, 2009
Ken Gibby
Saratoga Springs, UT
Ken Gibby   Saratoga Springs, UT
Agree that it is a great climb for a first time lead. Much easier than Too Much Fun. Heavily trafficed wall so get there, get it done, and move on. Jun 14, 2010
Kiri Namtvedt
Minneapolis, MN
Kiri Namtvedt   Minneapolis, MN
In comparison with other routes at City of Rocks I'd call this a 5.7. Easy and fun moves, big holds. Jul 6, 2010
Michael Buchanan  
Fun climbing. I saw three different people do it three different ways. good warmup. Jul 22, 2010
Easy climb, lots of bolts! Great warmup.. Oct 8, 2012
Yeah, not sure how this went from 5.7R to 5.9 with bolts...
I think 5.7 may be a sandbag though. 5.8? Nov 12, 2012
Great climb. Two maybe 3 moves of 5.8, rest 5.7. Just super positive very gym like. Sep 29, 2013
Dr. Long Arm
Dr. Long Arm  
This was a fun climb. Great holds. 5.8 seems like a good rating to me. A great warm up climb as it is about a minute from the road. Oct 19, 2013
Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
Daniel Nelson   Jackson, WY
Well bolted 5.8. Big patinas start to finish. Great warmup. Great for a first sport lead as well. Oct 29, 2013
Kevin Heckeler
Las Vegas, NV
Kevin Heckeler   Las Vegas, NV
Back East we call this 5.6+

Great climb, lots of interesting moves and jugs when you want them. Despite the plethora of hands, there's equal abundance of feet and if you spend a few extra seconds you might find an easier way than hauling yourself up (at 5.8+). I recall three or four times looking a bit and realizing a mantle or stem here and there made what appeared to be a tough, burly move into something much easier.

There's the hard way, then there's the better (usually technical) way. Anyone can make a 5.7 into a 5.9 Aug 11, 2017