Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Bath Rock - West

Coffee and Cornflakes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Colossus S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Donini's Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gemini S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Loch Ness Monster S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Maximum Impact T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Private Idaho T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rollercoaster S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Taranula S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Whip, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wild Country T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Type: Sport, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,435 total, 43/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 2, 2005
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


266 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

AKA: Broken Face. Just left of Private Idaho is this face that is easily top-roped, after climbing Private Idaho. Simple straight-forward C of R climbing. A bit flaky.

Protection

Bolts, chain anchor.
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.7+
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.7+
Back East we call this 5.6+

Great climb, lots of interesting moves and jugs when you want them. Despite the plethora of hands, there's equal abundance of feet and if you spend a few extra seconds you might find an easier way than hauling yourself up (at 5.8+). I recall three or four times looking a bit and realizing a mantle or stem here and there made what appeared to be a tough, burly move into something much easier.

There's the hard way, then there's the better (usually technical) way. Anyone can make a 5.7 into a 5.9 Aug 11, 2017
Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
 
Daniel Nelson   Jackson, WY
 
Well bolted 5.8. Big patinas start to finish. Great warmup. Great for a first sport lead as well. Oct 29, 2013
Dr. Long Arm
  5.8
Dr. Long Arm  
  5.8
This was a fun climb. Great holds. 5.8 seems like a good rating to me. A great warm up climb as it is about a minute from the road. Oct 19, 2013
TNORM
 
TNORM  
 
Great climb. Two maybe 3 moves of 5.8, rest 5.7. Just super positive very gym like. Sep 29, 2013
Yeah, not sure how this went from 5.7R to 5.9 with bolts...
I think 5.7 may be a sandbag though. 5.8? Nov 12, 2012
davidaw
 
davidaw  
 
Easy climb, lots of bolts! Great warmup.. Oct 8, 2012
Michael Buchanan  
  5.8
Fun climbing. I saw three different people do it three different ways. good warmup. Jul 22, 2010
Kiri Namtvedt
Minneapolis, MN
Kiri Namtvedt   Minneapolis, MN
In comparison with other routes at City of Rocks I'd call this a 5.7. Easy and fun moves, big holds. Jul 6, 2010
Ken Gibby
Saratoga Springs, UT
  5.8-
Ken Gibby   Saratoga Springs, UT
  5.8-
Agree that it is a great climb for a first time lead. Much easier than Too Much Fun. Heavily trafficed wall so get there, get it done, and move on. Jun 14, 2010
PhotoDaveM70
Ogden, Utah
  5.8-
PhotoDaveM70   Ogden, Utah
  5.8-
5.9 is a bit high - feels more like a 5.8-. Lots of excellent holds - a great route for a first time lead climber. Aug 16, 2009
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
As previously reported. This route has now been bolted by Dave Bingham and has 7 bolts and chain anchors. Great rock and well protected.

Susan Aug 14, 2007
Brian in SLC
Sandy, Utah
  5.7+
Brian in SLC   Sandy, Utah
  5.7+
I'd led it a few years back prior to the new bolts. Felt the same (difficulty wise) as it did last weekend...around 5.7+ or so. Fun route. Welcome upgraded addition to the wall. Good anchor location too, as it doesn't interfere with folks on Private Idaho. Should take some heat off the standard routes folks get busy on there. A long sling on the second bolt will help a tad with drag as a shorter quick draw tends to pin the rope to the rock right of the little bulge of rock there. Nice job, Dave! Jun 19, 2007
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.7+
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
  5.7+
This route was listed as "Leftmost 5.7R" in the old Forkash guidebook. It felt pretty easy for 5.9. I am sure it would be a different experience on lead without the bolts. The face is still a little dirty, but I am sure it will clean up with the heavy traffic the route is seeing.
Jun 19, 2007
Dave Clawson
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Dave Clawson   Boulder, CO
  5.9
This route has recently been bolted and is now a well protected sport climb. Jun 5, 2007