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Routes in Bath Rock - West

Coffee and Cornflakes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Colossus S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Donini's Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gemini S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Loch Ness Monster S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Maximum Impact T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Private Idaho T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rollercoaster S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Taranula S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Whip, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wild Country T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 12,477 total, 76/month
Shared By: Craig Martin on Jun 19, 2004
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

Located on the back side of Bath Rock, just left of Colossus.
Classic Crack Climbing! Climb the obvious crack in the large open book. Move Left at the crux 70' up to keep it 5.9. Straight up might be slightly harder.

Edit: Apparently I got this wrong, don't go left or you will be cheating. Although going left is a lot of fun.

Protection

Standard City of Rocks Rack. Nothing bigger than a #2 Camalot.
TNORM  
Great route, It's all there. The crux is heady no matter which way you go. Sep 29, 2013
greg t
Chevy, Silverado
 
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
 
I'm gonna go against the grain here and say "meh." It looks like a lot more fun than it is. Overall mediocre at best, especially compared to its neighbors Rollercoaster and Colossus, which are way better. Jun 27, 2013
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
  5.9
As seems to be the case with certain City routes, PI appeared to be dubious in stand-out quality when viewed from the ground. But my partner assured me it was awesome. And it was! The wide crux protects well with nothing larger than a #2, as others have stated.

I might have placed a #3 somewhere on this route (can't remember), but you really shouldn't need a 4. Oct 12, 2012
Great spots for larger sized nuts right off the deck. Super fun route. Mar 25, 2012
wasatch-mtn-man  
  5.9
Protects very well. I actually used a #4 up top in the larger portion of the crack. Maybe I'm just weak but that direct slot was a bit of a grunt. Glad I had some nice pieces in before the crux. 50/50 nuts/cams. Great route! Jun 13, 2011
Ken Gibby
Saratoga Springs, UT
  5.9
Ken Gibby   Saratoga Springs, UT
  5.9
More face than crack but you get to use a whole host of moves which makes it very fun. The taller you are the easier the crux. Left is certaily easier. Jun 14, 2010
Drederek
  5.9
Drederek  
  5.9
More face than crack, still a great pitch. Sep 25, 2009
Woodson
Park City, Ut.
  5.9
Woodson   Park City, Ut.
  5.9
This route gets my vote for best 5.9 trad route at the city. Cool stemming with a jam crux! Ditto previous comments, and this route protects really well. Sep 20, 2009
Fat Paul
Central, NJ
Fat Paul   Central, NJ
Route protects well with nuts. I concur that crux move out left is easier than the rated 5.9. Jun 12, 2009
Brice W
  5.9
Brice W  
  5.9
This route looks steep but all the great stems make it easier than it looks. Great fun and good gear. Sep 8, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.9
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.9
Great route! Lower section takes great sm-med nuts. Bring some larger cams 3-4" for the larger pods that are coming. 2.5" cam will protect direct slot finish which is a bit of a grunt for it's less than 2 feet. Chain Anchors. Aug 14, 2007
Nathan Fisher
  5.9
Nathan Fisher  
  5.9
Fun lead for a reacquaintance of the City. Good gear, and good climbing. A #2 Camalot protects the straight up version perfectly. Straight-up may seem harder than 5.9 due to the wideness of the crack, but all wide cracks seem harder than they are, unless that is your thing. To me the wide version was too short to even climb like a wide crack. One secure hand jam way high, and then swing your legs high and you are there. Exposed feeling, but all there. Sep 5, 2005
kBobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
  5.9
kBobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
  5.9
I agree. Straight up is 5.9. Going to the left makes the route a 5.8**. Jun 27, 2005
straight up is the 5.9 crux... left would be easier... Jul 26, 2004