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Routes in Bath Rock - West

Coffee and Cornflakes T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Colossus S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Donini's Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Gemini S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Loch Ness Monster S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Maximum Impact T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Private Idaho T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rollercoaster S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Taranula S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a PG13
Whip, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Wild Country T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Greg Lowe, 1967
Page Views: 4,926 total, 30/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 13, 2004
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

This is a classic tough roof crack on the back side of Bath Rock. Many try this route, but but few succeed. It is probably a little bit of a sandbag.

Start below the obvious roof crack. You can clip a bolt on Gemini 5.12a near the beginning. Work up under the roof and fire in some thin hand gear. If you are tall, you can get a no hands sit down rest below the roof.

Jam the thin hand crack through the roof. (tape!!) Face holds can be found on the left and right. Picking the right moves and getting your feet in the crack, will gain a rest above the roof. An easier hand crack leads to the bolt anchor on the sport climb to the left.

I heard a rumor that Donini came back and solo'ed this thing in his 60's.

Protection

Hand size cams, nuts...

Photos

I looked thru some old correspondence with Greg Lowe, who called this 5.11. This may well be the only "Lowe Route" ever downgraded! Nov 3, 2015
zach cook
Boise, ID
zach cook   Boise, ID
One of my favorites....short lived but full value for those few feet. Great hand crack with some bold moves below to get into it. Great gear all the way! Tape doesnt hurt, but the jams are over super quick. Mar 22, 2015
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10+
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10+
I strongly recommend bringing a single #4. I was tipped off to the 4 by a dude nearby and was super happy to have it since it was my first piece (which occurs about 50 feet off the deck). This + a second piece in a slightly higher pod gave me some peace of mind to commit to the thought-provoking and steep moves getting under the roof. Also, these placements are not obvious from the ground.

Green Camalots can be put in the roof itself but I was able to place a gold much higher and that made me happier. So I would not really call this "a thin hand crack".

Heel hooking may work for some but is not required (or even necessarily most effective) beta. Jun 16, 2013
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10c
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10c
Burly. Tape up for the crux and don't forget heel hooks, breathing (or you will get very winded) and all kinds of crazy body contortions. Sep 7, 2012
Jeffrey Gagliano
Pennsburg, PA
Jeffrey Gagliano   Pennsburg, PA
I tried this route in 2007 (My 1st of 2 trips to the City). And had lead Crack of Doom the day before. I got soundly rebuffed at the crux! A critical and subtle change in hand position makes it possible...otherwise as I had hit it...impossible! Hey, every climb is a 5.14 if you do it wrong! Sep 20, 2010
Ben Folsom  
 
Awesome route! Glad I finally decided to do it. Intimidating and steep, but it is all there. I agree with the previous comments that it is a bit tough for the grade. Sep 20, 2010
alpinista83
San Francisco, CA
alpinista83   San Francisco, CA
One of the toughest 10cs I've ever tried to free. Ran out of juice and took a huge whip off the roof. Protect before trying to jam up (green .75s- I put in two of 'em- they won't obstruct the necessary jamming).

Rumor is true. Straight from the horse's mouth. Ran into Jim climbing in City of Rocks.

Great climb. Do it! And clip that .75 with a short draw. Aug 28, 2010
John Bradford
Yellowstone National Park
  5.10c
John Bradford   Yellowstone National Park
  5.10c
A little bit of a sandbag? I should get frequent flyer miles for this one. May 12, 2008