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Routes in Anteater - West

Holding Out For a Hero T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Scream Cheese S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
She Bop T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Smurf Smasher T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Swiss Cheese T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Velveeta TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
track marks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,274 total · 24/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 12, 2004
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


165 Opinions

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Description

Most people TR this line after climbing the harder Scream Cheese. The first bolt is way up there. A small nut can be placed before the first bolt. After the second bolt, you can place a medium hex to the left and a bunch of tiny nuts in a seam. Pull the final moves around a bulge.

Protection

Nuts, lowe balls, RPs, and hexes.

Photos

John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
For those lead climbers who come to the bulge at the top of the climb and think that the crack out to the left looks beautiful... it is. You can easily bail out left via the "wuss variation." Oddly however, those on top rope will climb the bulge without a problem. Go figure. Aug 19, 2005
Kiri Namtvedt
Minneapolis, MN
 
Kiri Namtvedt   Minneapolis, MN
 
Whoever bolted this is A) tall, and B) perhaps sadistic? For a 5'6" person to reach the first bolt requires perhaps 25 feet of climbing on big, positive holds... and then a mantle move. Argh! If the bolt was a foot lower a short person could reach it from positive holds. But yes, all the moves are "easy", including the direct finish. Jul 6, 2010
adam webster
El Paso TX
 
adam webster   El Paso TX
 
yeah i remember this one Apr 14, 2012
Matt Schroer
Logan, Utah
  5.7 R
Matt Schroer   Logan, Utah
  5.7 R
Lead this as it was meant to be led: with 2 quickdraws and a handful of courage on your rack. A potentially spicy lead for a 5.7 leader, but for more advance leaders, this is a good mental testpiece. Direct finish on hero holds is the way to go. Jun 23, 2013
Rob Stinogle
Salt Lake City
 
Rob Stinogle   Salt Lake City
 
The first bolt is unreachable with a stick clip. Bring some courage, or place some gear on the way up. Jul 8, 2014
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
 
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
 
Gear isn't actually an issue. A nut and large cam, a few bolts, hand sized cams, then various options to top out. Jun 20, 2016
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
 
You can also place micro cams in the cracks to the left before the first bolt. Lots of gear possibilities for upper section. Nov 14, 2016
Jaren Watson
Boise, ID
  5.7 PG13
Jaren Watson   Boise, ID
  5.7 PG13
It’s probably useful to think of this as a mixed route requiring judicious placements rather than an R rated route. Oct 6, 2018

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