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Anteater - West Rock Climbing

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Routes in Anteater - West

L › R R › L A › Z

	Holding Out For a Hero T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Scream Cheese S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	She Bop T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Smurf Smasher T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Swiss Cheese T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	track marks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Velveeta S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

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GPS:	42.08229, -113.7218 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	22,170 total · 130/month
Shared By:	GRK on Apr 24, 2012
Admins:	GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) There are no longer trash cans in the park. (3) Highlining ban in place for CIRO and CRSP Details

(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's.
(2) In 2024 CIRO implemented a no trash cans anywhere policy. Be prepared to take your trash home with you. facebook.com/CityOfRocksNPS… and nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is prohibited as of August 28, 2019.

Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…

Description

Home of the classic Scream Cheese, The west face of Anteater will be a hard one to miss. It's striking featured face and amusement park style line to its base will make your arrival at the Anteater quite obvious.

Climbing here varies from face to crack to slab to everything in-between. A set of about 8-10 draws, a few long runners and a single set of gear should do the trick. Routes here aren't very tall and a 60 meter rope will just make it.

Lucky for most, there are more than two routes here, while waiting to be called, try your luck on Holding Out for a Hero or the highly aesthetic Smurf Smasher.

Descend: Reduce wear and tear by rappeling from anchors on top.

Morning shade / Afternoon sun.

Getting There

From Parking Lot Rock, take the fork that branches right, follow signs past Morning Glory and skirt along the trail to the base.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Anteater - West

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R 331 ● Swiss Cheese Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 98 ● Velveeta Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 28 ● She Bop Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 546 ● Scream Cheese Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 13 ● track marks Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 26 ● Holding Out For a Hero Trad