Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Anteater - West

Holding Out For a Hero T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Scream Cheese S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
She Bop T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Smurf Smasher T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Swiss Cheese T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Velveeta TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
track marks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Dan and Pat Sperlock, 1989
Page Views: 14,315 total · 83/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 17, 2004
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


296 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This climb goes up the prow next to Swiss Cheese. It has a fun mix of jugs, face, and slab climbing. There is a nocticeable runout half way up the route, but the holds are good. Rap the route from chains on top. Probably one of the best 5.9 sport climbs at the City.

Protection

Bolts, chain anchor at top.
Bob Bland
  5.9
Bob Bland  
  5.9
This is a superb route at City of Rocks, one of my favorites. It has great holds and sequences, culminating in a surprizing little "change of pace" friction crux near the top. Bolt placements are excellent, and the rappel anchors are right on top of Swiss Cheese. All bolts. Aug 16, 2004
kBobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
kBobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
There is now a second set of chains at the top exclusively for this route. Jun 27, 2005
Jared Hargrave
Salt Lake City, UT.
Jared Hargrave   Salt Lake City, UT.
I led this route and felt that it was a pretty soft 5.9. My partner, who never top-roped a 5.9 before, thought it was easier than Delay of Game! However, the mid-route runout did freak me out a bit and I had to stop to make sure I didn't miss a bolt. Overall a fun climb and good for the first-time 5.9 climber. Aug 16, 2006
Tyler King
Salt Lake, UT
  5.9-
Tyler King   Salt Lake, UT
  5.9-
Great route. I didn't even notice the runout (and believe me I notice runouts). It must have been that after all the friction climbing and trad climbing the holds were so positive (and it is bolted!) it was no big deal. My crux was getting on to the slab. I just needed to high step to the last good hold and balance up. After that small pockets make it a very easy slab. Jul 16, 2008
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
No cooler 5.9 sport route. Yes run outs between 3 and 4 but the holds are great. the crux is getting off all those big chicken heads that have spoiled you onto the whimpering slab section. But one or two tricky moves of that and the going gets good. fun fun, great combo with Skyline. Consider a belay anchor at the bottom as the stance is a little exposed. Jun 27, 2010
This climb is not as run out as lots of city classics and each time I have climbed it I have never felt there was a safety issues as I always felt the route was very well enginered and I have never thought a fall in between 3 rd and 4 th bolt a problem. But as there is a small scoop below the third bolt I watched my friend peel off today about 8 feet above the 3rd bolt and take a good 16 foot drop before the rope even caught perhaps a bit less as I took in as much rope as I could. Where I always imagined the route was steep enough to provide a safe fall on the run out I realized that the scoop will stop u before the rope will resulting in two broken ankles and one piggy back ride to parking lot rock parking. Freak accident in all accounts I dont know if would happen again. But I share this so people can be aware there is a danger factor on this route easy to miss. One that I had never considered. Please climb safe and take this into account. All the same this route is one of my city faves and should be climbed. Aug 18, 2013
Daniel Nelson
Jackson, WY
 
Daniel Nelson   Jackson, WY
 
Fantastic - great location/view. Great variety of climbing. Slab on top not as runout as many other slab finishes in the City. Hit up this on your way back to the lot after doing Skyline for an amazing morning of climbing. Oct 29, 2013
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Meh. One move that gets your attention. The arĂȘte next door (left) is actually better climbing if you ask me. Jun 20, 2016
To the individual who put and left blue tick marks (pretty sure it was sidewalk chalk... seriously?) on this route. If you NEED tick marks for some reason, scrub it off when you're done and just an FYI, sidewalk chalk is not okay. Please learn some outdoor climbing etiquette. Jul 25, 2016
Now my favorite 9 after Flower of High Rank in CA! Great climbing! Oct 11, 2016
Both anchor bolts were spinners as of June, 2017. Very easy and short traverse to the Swiss Cheese anchors recommended. Jul 24, 2017
Mark Says
Aspen, CO
 
Mark Says   Aspen, CO
 
At the end of the day, when you're just trying to bag one more route, and you're looking at that run out... and then someone hikes up to get on route after you, so you just go for it, and a moment later you're clipping the anchors... starting off exposed sets the mood for this, and it's a shoot dang ton of fun. Sep 29, 2017
user id
Ogden, Utah
user id   Ogden, Utah
What? Thats sounds like a shoot dang ton of bass-ackwards spray. Oct 2, 2017

More About Scream Cheese

Printer-Friendly