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Routes in Anteater - West

Holding Out For a Hero T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Scream Cheese S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
She Bop T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Smurf Smasher T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Swiss Cheese T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Velveeta TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
track marks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 125 ft
FA: Jay Goodwin, 1986
Page Views: 1,300 total · 10/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Jun 19, 2007
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

This route deserves to see more traffic. The climbing is interesting and the runouts are exciting , but reasonable.

Start the climb from the ground, and follow a thin crack with good gear to the huecoed wall. The crux is surmounting the first bulge with good gear. Place some creative gear in one of the huecos, and run it out to a good bolt. This section should be considered "R" rated without this piece of gear. Easier climbing leads to the bolt anchor on Scream Cheese.

Location

The first route to the right of Scream/Swiss cheese...

Protection

light rack to #2, include a good selection of wires

Photos

Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
 
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
 
Gear recommendation - singles from blue Alien to #2 Camalot, single set nuts. The #2 can be placed in the horizontal before gaining the upper headwall. Definitely a worthy route. Jun 6, 2016

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