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Routes in Lost Arrow Spire

Fists of Fury T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Forkash & Riches S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ischemic Pain / Body Buster S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Lost Arrow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Lowe, Brown
Page Views: 17,547 total, 108/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 23, 2004
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Description

AKA: Classic Route.

Pitch 1: Start on the north face of Lost Arrow Spire on a flake traverse that reaches a vertical crack with the original Lowe piton in it. Clip it, enjoy the nostalgia, and stem or jam your way on up. After the crack ends, clip the bolt and work through the highly pocketed face to the exciting and well protected hand traverse. The crux seems to be the tail end of this traverse. Attain the ledge and belay.

Pitch 2: works left off the ledge. Protect before you make the leftward move over the arete as there is NO protection beyond it. It is 5.5 only. Caveat: If you do protect it the rope drag will kill you. Choose your poison.

Protection

Lost Arrow has 1 bolt and 4 pitons on the 1st pitch. Otherwise a standard rack will work. Bring some runners also.
Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
Jay Morse   Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
5.7G
5.5PG
5.3R

This was one of my favorite and most memorable climbs at the City, don't miss it. You should extend just about every piece on this. If you aren't prepared to do that, don't climb this. As everyone is saying, there is plenty of pro on pitch 2, you just need to extend (120cm slings are ideal).

I did the rappel with one 60m rope by having my second go down on a single strand, then had her connect 2x 240cm slings to the rope with locking carabiners and clipped them onto her belay loop. I then counterbalance rappelled down on the opposite strand. Perfect! I think it could have probably been done without the extension if we both swung the rappel over to the left onto a ledge - but it seemed close and a little tricky and I was happy to give myself a little margin of safety. Sep 6, 2017
GilaShot
Western Antarctic, New Engl…
 
GilaShot   Western Antarctic, New Engl…
 
Pitch one will be scary for 5.7 leaders. I felt like there were a few committing 5.8 moves, and placing gear to back up the 50 year old pitons on the ramp was a bit awkward. Pitch two was easy but I think a fall could potentially pull the rope over the sharp patina edge of the route. Great fun, but way more adventurous than other local routes of the same grade. Aug 23, 2016
zach cook
Boise, ID
zach cook   Boise, ID
YOu can do this in a single pitch, major rope drag if clipping the first bolt and piton, or extend majorly. 70m gets you down. Jun 26, 2016
I must have missed the first piton because I did not see any protection until the first bolt. placed a #3 cam just to calm my nerves. 2nd pitch seemed much easier than the 1st Oct 28, 2015
S.Lee
 
S.Lee  
 
Thought it was a fun route. Going from standing on top to getting situated at the anchors to rappel is kind of sketchy. Mar 1, 2015
flynn  
Re the second pitch: go pretty much straight left from the belay stance. This is juggy; you'd have to try really hard to fall off it. Ease left around the corner onto a flatiron-like face, but with the lovely crack mentioned earlier. Runout at the top is casual. Summit is five stars on a scale of three; bring some good munch material and hang out for the view. Feb 15, 2014
Riley P
Arcata, CA
 
Riley P   Arcata, CA
 
there is no real need to place any pro on the first pitch there are a few bomber pitons and a bolt. a 60 m rope makes the rappel, barely. make sure to bring plenty of slings, esp for getting situated before the rap. the second pitch is super fun, its a "jug-arete" Aug 17, 2013
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
  5.7 PG13
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
  5.7 PG13
If you cruise the first pitch. The 2nd pitch is nothing! Way less stressful IMO. And the 2nd pitch does actually protect well if you stay in hand-crack. Not sure if that's considered the real route though... Jun 3, 2013
SThal
Logan, UT
SThal   Logan, UT
Barely got down with 1 60m, with no downclimbing. Go rappeller's left toward the tree. But you can also go right to a stack of rocks. May 12, 2013
Nate Flink
Minneapolis, MN
 
Nate Flink   Minneapolis, MN
 
I found the runout at the top a little freaky, but it's all solid. You can hold onto large jugs on the lip. Rapped with a 70m to ground from the top. Amazing rock quality and interesting moves. Must do! Sep 27, 2012
Buddy Tangalos
Salt Lake City
 
Buddy Tangalos   Salt Lake City
 
Worth the hike for the solitude. No anchors at the belay station, so bring some #0.5-#2 cams to build. Plenty of room. The second pitch is airy and fun, especially if you don't pull onto the stab and want to make the route a little more adventurous (read: dangerous). Room at the top for a picnic. 70m rope from the chain anchors on top would have gotten us to the ground, but we had two ropes anyways. Jun 25, 2012
wasatch-mtn-man
  5.7 R
wasatch-mtn-man  
  5.7 R
What in the world?! This climb is so much fun I can't believe it. I followed pitch 1 and thought a few moves were harder than 5.7 but was probably just the exposure just before the short vertical crack to the belay ledge.

Pitch two is lots of fun on a wind-gust kind of day! I placed an opposed nut before going around the corner which is exciting to say the least. Opted for one #3 C4 in the diagonal crack before heading up. Rope drag was not unreasonable. If I took that cannonball to the chest as per above, I at least wanted something protecting my tarzan-swing out on the face. The climbing really isn't hard at the point however. Just exposed and exciting. What a top-out! The rap is sweet. Jun 15, 2012
jeffozozo
santa clara, utah
  5.7 R
jeffozozo   santa clara, utah
  5.7 R
A single 70 meter rope gets you all the way down with 10 feet to spare. No need to bring two 60's. Also, the first pitch just needs small things, nuts and cams #.75 and smaller. I used a #1, a #2 and #3 to build anchor at the belay ledge.

If you use really long runners on the first part, before the bolt, it will reduce the rope drag. I clipped the bolt, but I didn't use a long enough runner and I suffered for it belaying from above. Jun 14, 2012
Ty Morrison-Heath
Bozeman, MT
 
Ty Morrison-Heath   Bozeman, MT
 
If you want to up the grade a little do it in the winter when all the jugs are filled with ice. Probably doesn't get dry till early/mid may. Apr 26, 2011
Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
Just a second to the fact that the second pitch is completely and easily protectable until the last 20 ft or so, and by then if you have made it this far feels like a walk up. there is a crack a few feet left of the ridge line that takes mid size bomber cams. Jul 17, 2010
mkm
Boise, ID
mkm   Boise, ID
Great route. Not really a true "R" rating. On the second pitch, after turning the corner you can protect the crack with a larger cam (#2-3 camalot), and if you use a long sling (60cm or more) the rope drag is not a big issue. A couple moves after this it leans in to easy 4th class. Jan 12, 2010
Iain Morris
  5.7 PG13
Iain Morris  
  5.7 PG13
There's a lot of iron up there. You could almost pull it off with a set of slings!

The top out leaves you totally satisfied. Jul 30, 2007
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Totally fun with a swell rappel. Oct 24, 2006
Josh Janes    
 
Amazingly cool/improbable route, a great summit, and a wild rappel.

There is an alternate start about 50 feet right of the described start that travels up and left on a low-angle ramp, then steps around the corner and heads into the dihedral at the second pin. This can be protected with wires and aliens and I like it better -- stepping around the corner here is wild. In the photo (#3) of pitch one, you can see this ramp straight right of the climber -- it turns the corner onto the face where the climber is, and then joins the right-facing corner just above where he is.

Also, this is easily led in one pitch if gear is runnered well. Jul 4, 2006
Tea
Tea  
Agree with AC's comments....the 5.5 is R if you go straight up, but huge and positive. R....not X. Besides you can place a few small nuts at the edge, equalize/runner well a la gogarth....your in there! Heads up for lightning on those afternoon ascents...had a VERY close call here once....with the only cloud for 20 miles. weird. Mar 18, 2006
Gotta agree here. Though the move around the corner is very airy, (you can get some small nuts here, but they'll ptobably fall out once you are around the corner:-)...the climbing once on teh face is easy, huge, City Style dishes. If you are freaking out, you can go left and get some gear. I lead this as a total beginning leader, and though it is runout...it would take a cannonball in the chest to blow you off those dishes. VS is misleading....R is fine. Besides...the real scariest part is lowering your ass over the edge to rap!! have fun! Sep 27, 2005
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
5.7
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
5.7
Great climb, in regards to the very severe rating, I think this is terribly misleading to any would be ascentionists. The route description above states that during the second pitch when you cross over the arete and onto the east face that there is no protection. Actually there is a perfect #2 camalot crack that splits that face and diagonals up towards the summit. You can easily place as much gear as you would like in this beautiful crack, and as long as you use shoulder length runners, the rope drag is not a problem in the least. At the end of this crack, there is about 15 feet of unprotected climbing to reach the summit plateau, however, by that point I would say the climbing is in the 5.4 to 5.5 range. No problem, if you have already led the exciting first pitch. My point is to say that do not fear this climb because of the very severe rating. It is a great climb that is very protectable until the last 15 feet and the last 15 feet are easy. Aug 19, 2005
Good point Christina, 1 60 meter rope will get you down, but recommend that you use 2, as 1 rope forces you to hit the ledge on the left and downclimb. Also, it is a rather hairy drop off into a free rap. Aug 2, 2004
what about the rappel?that is the most fun scary part Aug 2, 2004