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Ischemic Pain / Body Buster
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British PG13
Avg: 3.9 from 9
votes
Routes in Lost Arrow Spire
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Dying for Exposure T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c X |
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Fists of Fury T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Forcash & Riches S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Ischemic Pain / Body Buster S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Lost Arrow (aka Original Route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 42.08568, -113.71267 |
| FA: | Equipped by Jay Goodwin, completed by Dan Sperlock |
| Page Views: | 3,066 total · 14/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on May 30, 2007 |
| Admins: | GRK, Mike Engle, Eric Bluemn |
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Access Issue: (1) Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, & all the crags north of Twin Sisters are CLOSED. (2) There are no longer trash cans in the park. (3) Highlining ban in place for CIRO and CRSP
Details
(1) The area, crags, and routes just north of the Twin Sisters are on private land and the landowner posted no trespassing notices at the gated road/trail to the area. Any access of these areas and routes is trespassing. The area was closed by the landowner due to trespassing, illegal camping, fires & trash, and disregard of owner's privacy.
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's.
(2) In 2024 CIRO implemented a no trash cans anywhere policy. Be prepared to take your trash home with you. facebook.com/CityOfRocksNPS… and nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Please be respectful of the land owner's wishes and do not climb or hike here. This includes White Lightning, Skinner Roof, Weather Wall, Yellow Wall, Larry's Annihilation, Needle Rock, Mississippi Fred's, and Secret Tom's.
(2) In 2024 CIRO implemented a no trash cans anywhere policy. Be prepared to take your trash home with you. facebook.com/CityOfRocksNPS… and nps.gov/ciro/planyourvisit/…
(3) HIGHLINING IS PROHIBITED
Highlining at City of Rocks National Reserve and Castle Rocks State Park is prohibited as of August 28, 2019.
Here are Google Drive links to the closure and the updated Code of Regulations for CIRO. drive.google.com/open?id=1y… and drive.google.com/open?id=1Y…
Description
Ischemic Pain: Pain due to inadequate blood supply to an organ or part of the body - especially the heart. The two names reflect the route equipper and the FA.
The route takes the crazy NW Arete of Lost Arrow. Clip the first bolt and perform a really crimpy, bouldery sequence to establish on a better hold and a second clip. Continue up run out terrain past a poorly located (ie dangerous) bolt. This is the fourth clip which would be much better located down and left by 10-15 feet, but it can easily be back cleaned once the next clip is made. Higher up a green or yellow Alien provides crucial pro to protect a huge run out. A final sequence of crazy fin-pinching and liebacking leads to a thin top out. Great route!
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