Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Equipped by Jay Goodwin, completed by Dan Sperlock
Page Views: 1,900 total · 12/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on May 30, 2007
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Description

Ischemic Pain: Pain due to inadequate blood supply to an organ or part of the body - especially the heart. The two names reflect the route equipper and the FA.

The route takes the crazy NW Arete of Lost Arrow. Clip the first bolt and perform a really crimpy, bouldery sequence to establish on a better hold and a second clip. Continue up run out terrain past a poorly located (ie dangerous) bolt. This is the fourth clip which would be much better located down and left by 10-15 feet, but it can easily be back cleaned once the next clip is made. Higher up a green or yellow Alien provides crucial pro to protect a huge run out. A final sequence of crazy fin-pinching and liebacking leads to a thin top out. Great route!

Protection

10 draws and a small cam or two. A 60m rope gets you down but just barely! A 70 would make this much easier logistically.

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