Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Martin McBirney, 1985
Page Views: 907 total · 8/month
Shared By: mountainsense on May 9, 2009
Admins: grk10vq, Mike Engle

You & This Route

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Just to the right of Ichemic Pain is a striking wide crack in a corner. Start by stemming the short, left-facing corner with a finger crack until possible to hand traverse toward the obvious, white corner--the feet here are a bit crumbly, so beware! A short, steep section of perfect fingers leads to a shallow alcove with a stance. Jam/layback the arching wideness past a small chockstone, then left out the roof. Follow the crack through to easier ground on the arete; link the route into Ichemic Pain by traversing left to bolts, or figure out some way to bail--the Bingham guide suggests this line "needs an anchor," but Preserve regulations prohibit bolting without approval.


Cam sizes from tips to 3.5"--bring a few 3.5" and some runners!


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Larry   SoAZ
FA Martin McBirney, mid-1980s. Or maybe Greg Lowe. Jun 14, 2010