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Routes in Lost Arrow Spire

Fists of Fury T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Forkash & Riches S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ischemic Pain / Body Buster S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Lost Arrow T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Martin McBirney, 1985
Page Views: 817 total, 8/month
Shared By: mountainsense on May 9, 2009
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

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Description

Just to the right of Ichemic Pain is a striking wide crack in a corner. Start by stemming the short, left-facing corner with a finger crack until possible to hand traverse toward the obvious, white corner--the feet here are a bit crumbly, so beware! A short, steep section of perfect fingers leads to a shallow alcove with a stance. Jam/layback the arching wideness past a small chockstone, then left out the roof. Follow the crack through to easier ground on the arete; link the route into Ichemic Pain by traversing left to bolts, or figure out some way to bail--the Bingham guide suggests this line "needs an anchor," but Preserve regulations prohibit bolting without approval.

Protection

Cam sizes from tips to 3.5"--bring a few 3.5" and some runners!

Photos

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Larry
SoAZ
Larry   SoAZ
FA Martin McBirney, mid-1980s. Or maybe Greg Lowe. Jun 14, 2010