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Routes in Riptide Wall

'Lectric Granny T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Astroprojection T,S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crosscurrent S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dirty Rotten Horror T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Edge of the Sea T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Feeding Frenzy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jazz the Glass S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Riptide T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Where There's a Drill, There's a Way S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: B. Smoot & J. Smoot '89
Page Views: 1,619 total, 10/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Apr 14, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Riptide is the namesake climb for this cliff. It is enjoyable, probably deserving 1.5 stars. It follows the yellowish streak that goes up and diagonals left across the wall.

Climb past the crux at the first bolt, then plug a small cam or tri-cam in a good pocket. Climb up into a pod at the second bolt. From here work up and left, either clipping other routes' bolts or placing gear in features. Top out at a vertical crack on the left side of the wall. Best to use the anchors for Astroprojection.

Protection

Riptide has two bolts, although it is possible to clip as many as 6 bolts and stay more or less on route. Also, bring gear. A pocket takes gear between the 1st and 2nd bolts, and other cracks are encountered which take small to medium gear.

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Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
  5.9+ PG13
Crag Turkey   Holladay, UT
  5.9+ PG13
Great climb, One of the more committing 5.9 leads up Parleys, but not too bad once you make it to the pocket.Fun top rope option if your not up for the lead. May 22, 2015
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Landon McBrayer   Salt Lake City, UT
 
Clip a bolt, then a nice pocket takes a .5 Camalot/orange metolius, then a bit of runout (easy ground) to the 2nd bolt, then a nice pocket (.75/red metolius) shows up, then easy ground with gear to the chains. Jun 1, 2013
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
I remember being tempted to clip that bolt on 'Feeding Frenzy' but was told by my belayer below that it would be a "dab" if I did, and it wouldn't count... I agreed and skipped it. (Just in case you're thinking of using it...Bolts Off!) May 2, 2011
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.9
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.9
Good committing line, the piece of cord on the 2nd bolt seems to indicate someone wasn't willing to go for it even though they had made it through the crux down low. Small nuts and cams from tiny to #1 keep things safe, there's a bunch of gear and stances, it's just a ways between placements.
Oh and that pocket eats a .5 camalot. May 13, 2010
john richards
salt lake city UT
 
john richards   salt lake city UT
 
a little sketch. different rock. not alot of gear options. Apr 21, 2008
triznuty
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
triznuty   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9+
This climb is very fun and worth doing, but be good with gear... Fun technical moves all the way. I remember placing big to small nuts up until the last 1/4 of the route, where I placed med cams. Sep 12, 2006
Nathan Fisher
  5.9
Nathan Fisher  
  5.9
The pocket between bolts 1 and 2 that Peter mentioned, is usable but very tough to place a piece. I don't own any really small cams, and I ended up running it out to the 2nd bolt, ignoring my belayer's shouted warnings. I looked at it later and one of my nuts might have worked. I clipped bolt 6 of Crosscurrent (the 1st bolt above the bulge that you are traversing left on), and then placed cams the rest of the way. After bolt 2, micro-nuts came in handy, until you came to a cam placement. Watch rope drag, or alleviate it with runners. Jul 3, 2004