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5.9, Trad, Sport, 90 ft,  Avg: 2.3 from 23 votes
FA: B. Smoot & J. Smoot '89
Utah > Wasatch Range > Parley's Canyon > Riptide Wall


Riptide is the namesake climb for this cliff. It is enjoyable, probably deserving 1.5 stars. It follows the yellowish streak that goes up and diagonals left across the wall.

Climb past the crux at the first bolt, then plug a small cam or tri-cam in a good pocket. Climb up into a pod at the second bolt. From here work up and left, either clipping other routes' bolts or placing gear in features. Top out at a vertical crack on the left side of the wall. Best to use the anchors for Astroprojection.


Riptide has two bolts, although it is possible to clip as many as 6 bolts and stay more or less on route. Also, bring gear. A pocket takes gear between the 1st and 2nd bolts, and other cracks are encountered which take small to medium gear.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nathan Fisher
St George
[Hide Comment] The pocket between bolts 1 and 2 that Peter mentioned, is usable but very tough to place a piece. I don't own any really small cams, and I ended up running it out to the 2nd bolt, ignoring my belayer's shouted warnings. I looked at it later and one of my nuts might have worked. I clipped bolt 6 of Crosscurrent (the 1st bolt above the bulge that you are traversing left on), and then placed cams the rest of the way. After bolt 2, micro-nuts came in handy, until you came to a cam placement. Watch rope drag, or alleviate it with runners. Jul 3, 2004
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] This climb is very fun and worth doing, but be good with gear... Fun technical moves all the way. I remember placing big to small nuts up until the last 1/4 of the route, where I placed med cams. Sep 12, 2006
john richards
salt lake city UT
[Hide Comment] a little sketch. different rock. not alot of gear options. Apr 21, 2008
Boissal .
Small Lake, UT
[Hide Comment] Good committing line, the piece of cord on the 2nd bolt seems to indicate someone wasn't willing to go for it even though they had made it through the crux down low. Small nuts and cams from tiny to #1 keep things safe, there's a bunch of gear and stances, it's just a ways between placements.
Oh and that pocket eats a .5 camalot. May 13, 2010
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] I remember being tempted to clip that bolt on 'Feeding Frenzy' but was told by my belayer below that it would be a "dab" if I did, and it wouldn't count... I agreed and skipped it. (Just in case you're thinking of using it...Bolts Off!) May 2, 2011
Landon McBrayer
Salt Lake City, UT
[Hide Comment] Clip a bolt, then a nice pocket takes a .5 Camalot/orange metolius, then a bit of runout (easy ground) to the 2nd bolt, then a nice pocket (.75/red metolius) shows up, then easy ground with gear to the chains. Jun 1, 2013
Crag Turkey
Holladay, UT
  5.9+ PG13
[Hide Comment] Great climb, One of the more committing 5.9 leads up Parleys, but not too bad once you make it to the pocket.Fun top rope option if your not up for the lead. May 22, 2015