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Routes in Riptide Wall

'Lectric Granny T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Astroprojection T,S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Crosscurrent S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dirty Rotten Horror T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Edge of the Sea T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Feeding Frenzy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jazz the Glass S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Riptide T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Where There's a Drill, There's a Way S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 219 total, 1/month
Shared By: Charles Konopa on Sep 7, 2005
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Dirty Rotten Horror climbs the corner just right of Astroprojection. Either start at the base on the road or up on a ledge. The first few moves are easy, but the climbing begins at a couple of fantastic pockets. Involves some strenuous liebacking and some fun reaches. Smear those footholds...the rock is surprisingly grippy. Higher up on the route avoid pulling on suspect horns, they aren't needed anyway. Set up a trad anchor at the top, curving to the right; or angle left to the anchors of Astroprojection. We used this climb as an exit route at the end of the day.

Protection

We toproped this climb using the anchors of Astroprojection. If trad leading, I'd suggest a set of stoppers and microcams, though there are some placements for large gear. I'd be wary of slinging the horns for which this climb may be named.

Photos

Sam Cannon
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b
Sam Cannon   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10b
For a laugh go read the comments on Jazz the Glass (the bolted line on the lip of the arete).

I looked at the line and read the comments and decided to go for the lead. Glad I did! I thought the movement was thoughtful and exciting, the gear finicky but sufficient, and the line obvious. I was able to get a purple and yellow Metolius in while hanging from the bucket-holds on the roof which helped me to feel secure pulling up into the next section.

I didn't clip the bolts on Jazz the Glass, I felt like it would've done awkward things with the rope and the gear seamed sufficient for my taste.

Gear wise doubles in micro cams will serve you well and then singles up to a #1 camalot. My critical pieces were two purple and a yellow Metolius micro cams. I placed one small brass offset nut as well.

Thought this was a super fun line! I liked it as much or more than its more popular trad-neighbor to the right, though it was a touch bolder; 3 stars within the context of Parley's. Mar 20, 2017
zoso
 
zoso  
 
Well let's see....
You could:
1. Try reading the route description, or
2. Note where the anchors on Astroprojection are, surmise the fall line from them (remembering that gravity pulls things straight down), and maybe set a directional if needed. Jun 24, 2013
Is rapping down from Astroprojection ok for this route? Then using Astro for top roping? Jun 24, 2013
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
See Jazz the Glass. Nov 29, 2012
There are about 4 bolts on this route now. Also, the anchor bolts have multiplied. Nov 29, 2012
zoso
 
zoso  
 
Good place to practice easy aid solo. Jan 29, 2009
Tea
Tea  
fun moves laying back to grab the bucket at the roof. Gear does look a little thin and flaring though. Jun 7, 2006
Tried to lead this today, and I didn't like the first three pieces I placed, so I backed off. Save it for another day. Apr 9, 2006