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Routes in Rupley Towers

Asleep at the Wheel T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bop Til You Drop T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Border Patrol T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chewrocka T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
ET Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jabba the Butt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Millennium Falcon T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Moving over Stone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Obe Wan Kanobee T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Out on Bail S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
R-1 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
R-2 D-2 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
R-3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
R-4 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
R-5 T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Team Toads T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trauma Center T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 130 ft
FA: Rupley, 1960's
Page Views: 5,517 total, 38/month
Shared By: kBobby Hanson on Dec 25, 2005
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


62 Opinions

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Description

Approach as for R1 through R3. Further along this wall at the last tower (before the Tri-Level), you will find a bolt line. This is Moving Over Stone, 5.11. Just to the right of this there is a ramp leading right to a bolt (the direct start straight up to the bolt is very thin 5.10). This is R4. Climb past the lone bolt to the crack in the roof. Up this to a large chimney.

Long route with lots of pro available.

Protection

Small nuts to yellow Camalot. Descend by rappelling off chains into a chimney on the backside of the formation. Move to the anchors of R-5 and rappel to the base.

Photos

Lana dude
5.10a
Lana dude  
5.10a
Have solid experience placing tricky gear before hopping on this one. Crack peters in and out. Flared and irregular at times. Jan 4, 2016
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.9
a defining trad route for mount lemmon. Nov 21, 2015
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.9
Awesome line that cliimbs like a sport climb, protects with gear. Definately the little thin smears under the roof are the crux. May 19, 2013
Crassik!
Do it. Sep 10, 2012
eMurdock
Tucson, Arizona
eMurdock   Tucson, Arizona
I think you mean zone 12 North (south is for the southern hemisphere). Nov 3, 2011
David Lammers
Grand Junction, CO
 
David Lammers   Grand Junction, CO
 
Coordinates in UTM:
12 South 0526904 by 3581172 Datum WGS 84 Nov 2, 2011
Boodge Nomchompski  
  5.9
Simply an amazing route! Jan 25, 2009
Jason Schrack
  5.9
Jason Schrack  
  5.9
Very fun route. I feel it is a classic. Feb 23, 2007
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.9
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.9
Even though the grades aren't too far apart (5.8+ vs 5.9), this is a much stouter route than R-1.

After the initial rap off the tower, you can get back to your packs at the base of Tower D by rapping from the anchors at the bottom of a gully on the southwest side of the tower (i.e. anchors for the first pitch of R-5 and/or belay anchors for "Trouble in Paradise") Dec 10, 2006
Have to agree with jbak on this one, pull your head out dude. Also the hand crack is higher up not just over the roof and like most Lemmon cracks it is used more for pro than climbing. One last thing for the person that entered this description. Do you really need to give a blow by blow making it impossible for people to have the full onsight experience? Jul 29, 2006
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.9
I agree that the traverse is the crux and it will certainly get your attention, but it also adds to this route being a classic. Mar 4, 2006