Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John and Ila Rupley, 1960's
Page Views: 4,621 total · 25/month
Shared By: Bobby Hanson on Dec 13, 2003
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


74 Opinions

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Description

On the second tower from the North (Tower B in EFR's book), just to the right of a chimney (route: R2, 5.6+) you will see a ledge about 30 feet up with a tree and a two-bolt belay. (1) Climb up flake past left facing corner under a bolt to this ledge. (2) Climb straight up left facing corner to crack, then face to top of tower. You can descend to the back side easily with one rappel. If you need to return to the base of the route, you can probably BARELY reach the belay ledge from pitch 1 with a 60m rope. The second pitch is exactly 30m. Be careful, and knot the ends of your rope if you rap the route!

Protection

Standard Rack. There is one bolt on the first pitch protecting the traverse. The last 30 feet of the route offers scant protection.

Photos

Wes Turner
az / pa
  5.8
Wes Turner   az / pa
  5.8
the first pitch is the .8 the rest is fairly easy .7 rap off west or north Jun 4, 2004
Wes Turner
az / pa
  5.8
Wes Turner   az / pa
  5.8
my bad guys...i was talking about R-3 Ignore those comments above... Solid .8+..... NOVICE .8 leaders watch that move past the bolt on P1! You will feel gripped so make sure you protect in horizontal crack before reaching for bolt on face!! My advice is if you cannot clip the bolt on that face from the stance then get good pro in crack ( maybe two pieces) and just climb past the bolt cause stopping once you've started out on that face would be an easy way to take a whipper. It's up to you! enjoy! Jun 4, 2004
Ryan Myers
Tempe, Arizona
 
Ryan Myers   Tempe, Arizona
 
Awesome classic.. a must do at Mt. Lemmon Apr 19, 2009
Derek Anderson
Tucson, AZ
 
Derek Anderson   Tucson, AZ
 
I love this routed!! one of my first gear leads I'm really excited on it. Apr 9, 2010
David Lammers
Grand Junction, CO
 
David Lammers   Grand Junction, CO
 
Coordinates in UTM:
12 South 0526927 by 3581197 Datum WGS 84 Nov 2, 2011
Spiro Spiro
  5.8+
Spiro Spiro  
  5.8+
Fun, bolt is in odd spot and spins. I would put gear in crack. Nov 28, 2012
Ryan Petronella
Denver, CO
 
Ryan Petronella   Denver, CO
 
Can someone clarify P1 for me? Just lead both pitches yesterday and for the first pitch I followed the topo and went around left, clipping the bolt on the left. However there's a bolt to the right that suggests an alternative route straight up, although it looks pretty run out to the belay ledge for P2. Is there a right way? Thanks Apr 1, 2015
RyanJohnson
Tucson, Arizona
 
RyanJohnson   Tucson, Arizona
 
If you went the way highlighted in this
, then you went the standard way. Apr 1, 2015
Lana dude  
 
can rap the route with a 60M using bolted intermediate station Jan 7, 2016
Paul Zander
Bern, CH
 
Paul Zander   Bern, CH
 
I did a straight up variation to the first pitch which made more sense to me. There's a newer looking bolt about 4 feet right of the old bolt. Clip that, pull a tough move (might be 5.9?) onto a stance. Above looks runout, but I got a great green alien, and there are other options. Felt safe to me and no drag.

The finish to this climb is amazing - steep climbing up an exposed arete with positive holds and great gear. Mar 26, 2016