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Routes in Rupley Towers

Asleep at the Wheel T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bop Til You Drop T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Border Patrol T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chewrocka T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
ET Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jabba the Butt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Millennium Falcon T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Moving over Stone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Obe Wan Kanobee T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Out on Bail S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
R-1 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
R-2 D-2 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
R-3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
R-4 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
R-5 T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Team Toads T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trauma Center T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: Peter Noebels, John Steiger, 1981
Page Views: 639 total, 4/month
Shared By: kBobby Hanson on Dec 25, 2005
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This is located on Squat Rock, straight downhill (not far) from Rupley Towers. The easiest approach may be to start down the narrow gully to the Southwest side of this tower, and look to your left on the tower for a rappel anchor. This is where the route ends. Rappel off of this anchor.

The route climbs the singular crack in the face. It begins as a seam, with a few tough moves to get established in the crack at a good stance. The crack continues up through some horizontal white bands, and past a horizontal crack (another okay stance). Above this the wall steepens and the crack becomes off-fingers to fingers, and ends on a mantle. Either step left here for very easy climbing into the gully, or step right and turn the bulge through another tips crack and up to the chains.

Walkoff up to the left toward Rupley Towers.

EFR's book rates this as 5.9+, but it is solid 5.10. This is a pumpy route with few good stances. The crack takes finger locks okay, but is somewhat shallow in places, and hard to jam.

Protection

Standard Rack up to Red Camalot.

Photos

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That's because there was no such thing as 9+ in yosemite. The YDS went to 5.9 and only used a,b,c,d upon reaching 5.10 Check out an old yosemite guide book. Personally, I think +- thing below 5.10 is a bit whack.That's about all I got on that,

Jeff

Jan 13, 2006
Scott Drawz
  5.9+
Scott Drawz  
  5.9+
This route is 9+ not 5.10. Mt. Lemmon needs to maintain a standard here. Don't soft grade please. And yes, I've led this climb.

If you don't believe me, then climb Yosemite or J-treecrack routes.

This route is NOT 5.10.

Not trying to be a jerk, sorry. Jan 11, 2006