Type: Trad, 100 ft (30 m), 2 pitches
FA: John and Ila Rupley, 1960's
Page Views: 2,624 total · 12/month
Shared By: Bobby Hanson on Dec 13, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route


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Description

This route climbs the downhill side of Tower C (from EFR's book). This is the tower to the Northeast of the prominent gully (you can descend this gully and step across the the belay for pitch 1 if you so desire). (1) Climb ramp up and left toward bolts. Climb face past 5 bolts angling left about 45 degrees to a small ledge with a two-bolt belay. (2) Up and right toward the squeeze to a ledge just below and right of the summit. Either belay on this ledge behind the squeeze (without an anchor) or climb up summit block to cold-shuts. The former provides for less rope-drag, the latter for more security. Either rap off the back side from the summit, or rap the route in two raps.

Protection

Standard Rack. Five bolts provide MOST of the protection on pitch 1. One bolt helps on pitch 2. There is a two-bolt belay at the top of pitch 1. The anchor at the top of pitch 2 is virtually non-existent unless you climb up to the very top of the tower, or have very large gear with you. On top of the tower are several pairs of cold-shuts for rappelling.

Warning

The "Rupley Towers, Tower C Topo" photo in Squeezing The Lemmon III has R-3 and Where R We? (5.10-, R/X) swapped. The error will be corrected in future editions.

R-3 Topo

Photos