Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John and Ila Rupley, 1960's
Page Views: 2,115 total · 12/month
Shared By: Bobby Hanson on Dec 13, 2003
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

33 Opinions

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This route climbs the downhill side of Tower C (from EFR's book). This is the tower to the Northeast of the prominent gully (you can descend this gully and step across the the belay for pitch 1 if you so desire). (1) Climb ramp up and left toward bolts. Climb face past 5 bolts angling left about 45 degrees to a small ledge with a two-bolt belay. (2) Up and right toward the squeeze to a ledge just below and right of the summit. Either belay on this ledge behind the squeeze (without an anchor) or climb up summit block to cold-shuts. The former provides for less rope-drag, the latter for more security. Either rap off the back side from the summit, or rap the route in two raps.


Standard Rack. Five bolts provide MOST of the protection on pitch 1. One bolt helps on pitch 2. There is a two-bolt belay at the top of pitch 1. The anchor at the top of pitch 2 is virtually non-existent unless you climb up to the very top of the tower, or have very large gear with you. On top of the tower are several pairs of cold-shuts for rappelling.


The "Rupley Towers, Tower C Topo" photo in Squeezing The Lemmon III has R-3 and Where R We? (5.10-, R/X) swapped. The error will be corrected in future editions.

R-3 Topo


Wes Turner
az / pa
Wes Turner   az / pa
I do not advise rapping back down the route unless you want to really work yourself getting the rope down.. if you rap off west then you can walk to the top of the first pitch of R-3 and "bop til ya drop" and then rap to the base.. It is exposed so use caution! Jun 4, 2004
Ryan Myers
Tempe, Arizona
Ryan Myers   Tempe, Arizona
Great movement on this classic route.. must try if your at Windy Point Apr 19, 2009
Tucson, AZ
RobPelon   Tucson, AZ
First pitch had great movement Dec 4, 2016
my guidebook published in 2006 says there are bolted anchors at the top. Is that the case now, or are there still only cold shuts up there? Jan 15, 2017
Still cold shuts. They are visible if you zoom in to the right of the red-shirted climber in the "Throwing the rope" photo. I'll let wiser folks than I make the call as to whether they're still safe, but they appear quite old and rusted, and certainly made me think twice before using them. Would have preferred to build a gear anchor if there were decent placements up there, but once you're on top there's little to work with. Nov 28, 2017
1Eric Rhicard
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Removed a couple dozen of rhem and wouldn't think twice about using them. I know the guy who welded and installed them. If rust made everything unsafe all the cars in the midwest would have to be pulled off the road. Dec 1, 2017
Tucson, AZ
Gizmo   Tucson, AZ
Well, I followed the topo in STL3 for this climb and got on Where R We instead... definitely call that a 5.10 X, sorry about the blood everywhere. We left all the gear there but my partners will be trying to retrieve it later this week, so if you see it, please just leave it there, thanks. Jan 15, 2018
Bryanz   Arizona
See warning under the description for this climb,

"The "Rupley Towers, Tower C Topo" photo in Squeezing The Lemmon III has R-3 and Where R We? (5.10-, R/X) swapped. The error will be corrected in future editions."

Heal up quick! Jan 15, 2018
Tucson, AZ
Gizmo   Tucson, AZ
Came back to try out the correct route this time. Nice route. I thought the second pitch was much more interesting. You can do both pitches as a single pitch with a 70m rope, but you'll avoid the drag if you break it up into 2. Nov 20, 2018