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Routes in Rupley Towers

Asleep at the Wheel T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bop Til You Drop T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Border Patrol T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chewrocka T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
ET Arete S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jabba the Butt T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Millennium Falcon T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Moving over Stone S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Obe Wan Kanobee T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Out on Bail S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
R-1 T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
R-2 D-2 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
R-3 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
R-4 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
R-5 T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Team Toads T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trauma Center T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: John and Ila Rupley, 1960's
Page Views: 1,972 total, 12/month
Shared By: kBobby Hanson on Dec 13, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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This route climbs the downhill side of Tower C (from EFR's book). This is the tower to the Northeast of the prominent gully (you can descend this gully and step across the the belay for pitch 1 if you so desire). (1) Climb ramp up and left toward bolts. Climb face past 5 bolts angling left about 45 degrees to a small ledge with a two-bolt belay. (2) Up and right toward the squeeze to a ledge just below and right of the summit. Either belay on this ledge behind the squeeze (without an anchor) or climb up summit block to cold-shuts. The former provides for less rope-drag, the latter for more security. Either rap off the back side from the summit, or rap the route in two raps.


Standard Rack. Five bolts provide MOST of the protection on pitch 1. One bolt helps on pitch 2. There is a two-bolt belay at the top of pitch 1. The anchor at the top of pitch 2 is virtually non-existent unless you climb up to the very top of the tower, or have very large gear with you. On top of the tower are several pairs of cold-shuts for rappelling.


The "Rupley Towers, Tower C Topo" photo in Squeezing The Lemmon III has R-3 and Where R We? (5.10-, R/X) swapped. The error will be corrected in future editions.

Removed a couple dozen of rhem and wouldn't think twice about using them. I know the guy who welded and installed them. If rust made everything unsafe all the cars in the midwest would have to be pulled off the road. Dec 1, 2017
Still cold shuts. They are visible if you zoom in to the right of the red-shirted climber in the "Throwing the rope" photo. I'll let wiser folks than I make the call as to whether they're still safe, but they appear quite old and rusted, and certainly made me think twice before using them. Would have preferred to build a gear anchor if there were decent placements up there, but once you're on top there's little to work with. Nov 28, 2017
my guidebook published in 2006 says there are bolted anchors at the top. Is that the case now, or are there still only cold shuts up there? Jan 15, 2017
Tucson, AZ
RobPelon   Tucson, AZ
First pitch had great movement Dec 4, 2016
Ryan Myers
Tempe, Arizona
Ryan Myers   Tempe, Arizona
Great movement on this classic route.. must try if your at Windy Point Apr 19, 2009
Wes Turner   az
I do not advise rapping back down the route unless you want to really work yourself getting the rope down.. if you rap off west then you can walk to the top of the first pitch of R-3 and "bop til ya drop" and then rap to the base.. It is exposed so use caution! Jun 4, 2004