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Routes in North Wall

Baked Buns S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bun in the Oven S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Good to be a Gaper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Baked S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
High Tide S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Laas Rocket S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sundance S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunshine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Under Cooked S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Dean Barbis, 1994
Page Views: 610 total · 4/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Sep 11, 2004
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

One of the only slab routes on the north wall, Sundance also has a direct .11a start that begins with an overhung section and a good mantle.

It is the second route from the right on the North Wall, and after a moderate start you find yourself on a ledge and join the direct start. Then you climb past 7 (?) bolts on slabby terrain that is surprisingly challenging. There are three bulges that make for ~10a moves and each is punctuated by an easier section.

It looked like a joke from the ground, but I was surprised by how much fun I had on the slab.

Protection

8 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor w/ chains.A runner would be advisable for the first two bolts.

The direct route might be considered 'serious' as a fall finishing the mantle will probably put you back on the deck.

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Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
This is the best warmup route on The North Wall. Sep 19, 2004

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