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Routes in North Wall

Baked Buns S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bun in the Oven S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Climb Against Nature S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Good to be a Gaper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Baked S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
High Tide S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Laas Rocket S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sundance S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunshine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Under Cooked S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 235 total · 3/month
Shared By: V.X. on Aug 21, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

This is the longest easy route at Big Chief.

Do not lower off the anchors. Bring up the second from bolt anchors on a nice ledge. A 70m rope is mandatory to rappel.

This climb starts on Sundance and traverses left and ends up on the gold face way above The Oven. The climbing is easy (most of it is 5.7-5.8), well protected, and is on good rock. Be sure to use long runners sometimes even double lengths.

Climb Sundance past the first 2-3 bolts to a small ledge. This is where Sundance starts traversing right. At this point go left and up towards a wide crack. Clip the bomber fixed hex in the first crack, then climb left across the lip of the roof into a second dihedral/crack system. Stem the dihedral and traverse left onto the exposed juggy face. Climb up towards a shallow slanting roof on the gold headwall. The crux is a short well protected traverse under the roof. Finish by going straight up through cracks to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. Rap here. It is exactly 35m to the ground.

Location [Suggest Change]

Start on Sundance, climb up and left onto the gold headwall above The Oven.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Many draws and many long runners. 70m rope mandatory. A rope that is too short will leave you hanging in space. Make sure the ends of the rope are even!

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WooWooWoo
Truckee
WooWooWoo   Truckee
Careful...I have a 70m and it didn't reach the ground. Fortunately, there is another anchor halfway down ("Open Project" in Marek's book) so you should be able to get off with a 60 or 70 in 2 raps. Jun 8, 2014
My 70M rope also did not touch the ground off of this anchor. Jul 3, 2017
Ryan Faye
  5.9
Ryan Faye  
  5.9
few comments:
-bolt 2 of Sundance is missing a hanger, probably deck if you fell before bolt 3
-recommend double length runners, I only used singles and paid for it in rope drag at the top
-70m rope wasn’t even close to the ground, used intermediate anchor for 2 raps May 21, 2018

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