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Routes in The Oven
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American Spirit S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Baked Buns S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Bun In The Oven S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Climb Against Nature S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Good To Be A Gaper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Half Baked S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Happy Pappy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sundance S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sunshine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Under Cooked S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Sport, 150 ft (45 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,065 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | V.X. on Aug 21, 2012 |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Lurk Er, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Description
This is the longest easy route at Big Chief.
Do not lower off the anchors. Bring up the second from bolt anchors on a nice ledge. A 70m rope is mandatory to rappel.
This climb starts on Sundance and traverses left and ends up on the gold face way above The Oven. The climbing is easy (most of it is 5.7-5.8), well protected, and is on good rock. Be sure to use long runners sometimes even double lengths.
Climb Sundance past the first 2-3 bolts to a small ledge. This is where Sundance starts traversing right. At this point go left and up towards a wide crack. Clip the bomber fixed hex in the first crack, then climb left across the lip of the roof into a second dihedral/crack system. Stem the dihedral and traverse left onto the exposed juggy face. Climb up towards a shallow slanting roof on the gold headwall. The crux is a short well protected traverse under the roof. Finish by going straight up through cracks to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. Rap here. It is exactly 35m to the ground.
Do not lower off the anchors. Bring up the second from bolt anchors on a nice ledge. A 70m rope is mandatory to rappel.
This climb starts on Sundance and traverses left and ends up on the gold face way above The Oven. The climbing is easy (most of it is 5.7-5.8), well protected, and is on good rock. Be sure to use long runners sometimes even double lengths.
Climb Sundance past the first 2-3 bolts to a small ledge. This is where Sundance starts traversing right. At this point go left and up towards a wide crack. Clip the bomber fixed hex in the first crack, then climb left across the lip of the roof into a second dihedral/crack system. Stem the dihedral and traverse left onto the exposed juggy face. Climb up towards a shallow slanting roof on the gold headwall. The crux is a short well protected traverse under the roof. Finish by going straight up through cracks to a ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. Rap here. It is exactly 35m to the ground.
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