Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: Jim Zellers, July 1990
Page Views: 4,150 total · 22/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Aug 30, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


107 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is the second from the right route of the not so overhung (5.12ish) cave in the center wall.

Climbing is never hard, but is sustained overhang and pumpy the whole way up. Rests can be found after nearly every move with some creativity.

The crux is getting to the first bolt, and cheating in from the right seems to be a preferred choice for the route, though it doesn't make it any easier. This route is all jugs once you get past the first bolt.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor. Shares the first bolt with Raindance (5.12a), and the last bolt and top anchors with Witch Doctor (5.10c).

Photos

Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
One star climb- It was worth doing for the pump, but I don't know that I'd bother again if I went.It's dirty at the bottom, with some suspect rock. Up top it's sharp jugs with pumpy moves to the chains. 45 feet or so tall. If the grade is testy for you, you should stick-clip bolt #1. Sep 29, 2003
Rick D
Reno, NV
 
Rick D   Reno, NV
 
Disagree. The rock only looks suspect because it's typical Chief Choss. Looks like crap, but is bomber. The climb is awesome, great way to get a burn and work overhanging route at moderate grade. Dec 3, 2008
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
  5.10b
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
  5.10b
I'd agree about stick clipping the first bolt if you're not confident in the grade - the first one's a doozy... Dec 15, 2008
LifeIsGood
Reno, NV
 
LifeIsGood   Reno, NV
 
Paying close attention to what you're doing rather than where you're going as you make your initial approach - you may well almost miss the first bolt (it was at my hip when I noticed it) - just a word to the wise ... watch where you're going!

Also, someone has spray painted a white 'X' on a very crucial move. I'm not sure if this is because the hold is loose, or just because someone thought they'd 'mark the hold' for someone else. Definitely made me suspect and leery of climbing it, because if it is marked because it is loose, it would really be bad to be pulling on it as you make your move and have it come off May 16, 2010
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.10b
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.10b
Diana,
Putting a chalked 'X' on a chunk of rock is a pretty common way to communicate that a piece of rock is suspect and should be left alone.
Best. Sep 28, 2010
Josh Cameron
California
  5.10a
Josh Cameron   California
  5.10a
The crux for me was getting to the first bolt. Big holds for a 10a after that. Aug 24, 2011
Seth Hogan
Frisco, Co
 
Seth Hogan   Frisco, Co
 
Heh, the "X" on the route is obviously a locals idea of keeping people off of this route. Super solid. Jul 5, 2015
Mike Ferrell
San Francisco, CA
  5.10b
Mike Ferrell   San Francisco, CA
  5.10b
I really enjoyed this short, sustained climb. Getting to the first bolt is the mental crux if you don't stick clip, since the landing is over jagged rocks Aug 8, 2016
first bolt or two is the crux. As you get higher the holds are better but you will be nice and pumped at the top. A stick clip on the first bolt will ease the nerves for sure but it is a great climb without it as well. Sep 7, 2016