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Routes in Center Wall

All Guns Blazing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Big Chief Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bird of Prey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blazing Buckets S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Early Bird TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Eat the Worm S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flamethrower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Force Feed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Funambulist S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Green Hornet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Head Rush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killer Bee S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost Souls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mohawk S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mud Falcon S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mud Shark S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Peace Dance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Peace Pipe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pow Wow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Raindance S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Route Stealers From Hell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Running Bull S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Scalper S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Toilet Earth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Too Light to Wait S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Totally Chawsome S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Trail of Tears S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Travail Buttress S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wampum S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
War Paint S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
War Path S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Wicked Quickie S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Witch Doctor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, TR, 40 ft
FA: Jim Zellers, July 1990
Page Views: 3,656 total, 21/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Aug 30, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is the second from the right route of the not so overhung (5.12ish) cave in the center wall.

Climbing is never hard, but is sustained overhang and pumpy the whole way up. Rests can be found after nearly every move with some creativity.

The crux is getting to the first bolt, and cheating in from the right seems to be a preferred choice for the route, though it doesn't make it any easier. This route is all jugs once you get past the first bolt.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor. Shares the first bolt with Raindance (5.12a), and the last bolt and top anchors with Witch Doctor (5.10c).

Photos

first bolt or two is the crux. As you get higher the holds are better but you will be nice and pumped at the top. A stick clip on the first bolt will ease the nerves for sure but it is a great climb without it as well. Sep 7, 2016
Mike Ferrell
San Francisco, CA
  5.10b
Mike Ferrell   San Francisco, CA
  5.10b
I really enjoyed this short, sustained climb. Getting to the first bolt is the mental crux if you don't stick clip, since the landing is over jagged rocks Aug 8, 2016
Seth Hogan
Frisco, Co
 
Seth Hogan   Frisco, Co
 
Heh, the "X" on the route is obviously a locals idea of keeping people off of this route. Super solid. Jul 5, 2015
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.10a
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.10a
The crux for me was getting to the first bolt. Big holds for a 10a after that. Aug 24, 2011
J. Albers
Colorado
  5.10b
J. Albers   Colorado
  5.10b
Diana,
Putting a chalked 'X' on a chunk of rock is a pretty common way to communicate that a piece of rock is suspect and should be left alone.
Best. Sep 28, 2010
LifeIsGood
Reno, NV
 
LifeIsGood   Reno, NV
 
Paying close attention to what you're doing rather than where you're going as you make your initial approach - you may well almost miss the first bolt (it was at my hip when I noticed it) - just a word to the wise ... watch where you're going!

Also, someone has spray painted a white 'X' on a very crucial move. I'm not sure if this is because the hold is loose, or just because someone thought they'd 'mark the hold' for someone else. Definitely made me suspect and leery of climbing it, because if it is marked because it is loose, it would really be bad to be pulling on it as you make your move and have it come off May 16, 2010
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
 
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
 
I'd agree about stick clipping the first bolt if you're not confident in the grade - the first one's a doozy... Dec 15, 2008
Rick D
Reno, NV
 
Rick D   Reno, NV
 
Disagree. The rock only looks suspect because it's typical Chief Choss. Looks like crap, but is bomber. The climb is awesome, great way to get a burn and work overhanging route at moderate grade. Dec 3, 2008
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
One star climb- It was worth doing for the pump, but I don't know that I'd bother again if I went.It's dirty at the bottom, with some suspect rock. Up top it's sharp jugs with pumpy moves to the chains. 45 feet or so tall. If the grade is testy for you, you should stick-clip bolt #1. Sep 29, 2003