Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Center Wall

All Guns Blazing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Big Chief Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bird of Prey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blazing Buckets S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Early Bird TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Eat the Worm S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flamethrower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Force Feed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Funambulist S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Green Hornet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Head Rush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killer Bee S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost Souls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mohawk S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mud Falcon S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mud Shark S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Peace Dance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Peace Pipe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pow Wow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Raindance S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Route Stealers From Hell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Running Bull S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Scalper S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Toilet Earth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Too Light to Wait S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Totally Chawsome S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Trail of Tears S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Travail Buttress S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wampum S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
War Paint S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
War Path S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Wicked Quickie S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Witch Doctor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,112 total, 22/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Aug 22, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


105 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route ascends a vertcal face, that leads to a slab, and then back up the vertical face on the rightside of the less overhung cave, and just before the corner that hides viewing of the routes around it from inside the very overhung cave.

Two sections are sustained 5.9 climbing, though it's very well protected.Fun moves challenging using almost every vertical 5.9 move there is, except offwidth (which I don't like anyways!)

Protection

7 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -
Sun and more sun after noon. Good climbing. Only 5.9 part seemed to be getting by the corner/bulge near the top. Aug 26, 2015
Chandler Heppe
Nevada City, CA
 
Chandler Heppe   Nevada City, CA
 
fun longish climb to warm up on and get the blood flowing in the forearms, lots of really nice handholds and slightly overhung in places. Jan 4, 2014
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
It's 5.1 to the second bolt. First bolt not needed at all.... Sep 16, 2012
Brian Quiter
Oakland, CA
Brian Quiter   Oakland, CA
The first hanger on this route has been removed. The good news is that the climbing remains ~5.7 until the after you clip 2nd bolt. Sep 14, 2011
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
 
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
 
Scrambling along the top is doable - If you're willing to set up some top anchors and rappel down a pitch, after climbing up the other side! This isn't doable.

I'd forgotten about the sheer magnitude of the area; many routes here could easily be multiple pitches, I think it's simply the base area (and subsequent rockfall) that deterred the Hatchett brothers et al from running most routes multi-pitch. Second pitches on most routes would create a blind nasty rain of rock down onto people in the base area. Aug 28, 2007
Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
 
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
 
I'm 95% sure you need to climb it first, given that most of the routes in the canyon don't go all the way to the top of the cliff. I'm going there Monday, so I'll update this comment when I get back. Jul 15, 2007
Giulio Del Piccolo
El Jebel, CO
Giulio Del Piccolo   El Jebel, CO
Do you need to lead this first to TR it or can you scrammble around up top to set up your line? Jul 14, 2007