Elevation: 7,012 ft
GPS: 39.245, -120.203 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 42,760 total · 217/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Oct 8, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin ., Vicki Schwantes
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Description

The Big Chief Center Wall is just that: it's big. It's basalt, and it contains many climbs for climbers of all abilities (5.7 - 5.13+). Most of the climbs are sport routes in the 5.10 - 5.12 range on primarily overhung rock.

Most routes ascend only one pitch, though there are also a few 2 pitch routes as the top of the main rock, which peaks out at over 200 feet. It does seem that several routes could be added to the higher section of the rock.

Facing mostly east, you will find most routes in the sun for most of the day, though there will be some refuge in the later afternoon. There is also refuge in the cave, where the climbing routes get extremely overhung, tough, and short.

Getting There

Approach time: 15 - 30 minutes.

From the parking lot, head down the main path to the west, which consists of a former gravel road that has large trees cast through the center of it at the parking lot to ensure that people can no longer drive to the former lot.

After .6 miles of gentle dirt road, you will come to the former lot. From here head uphill for about 50 vertical feet on the narrowing trail to a fork. At the fork, you should head right, and this will take you up to the north pass.

From the north pass, hang a left around the rock, and this will take you into the center wall area. The first bolted route you will see is called Eye of the Beholder (5.11c). Continue another 50 yards downhill to the main cave area, and more routes are further along.

33 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Center Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 129
War Path
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 119
War Paint
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 60
Route Stealers From Hell
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 107
Mohawk
Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 40
Too Light to Wait
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 41
Witch Doctor
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 21
Flamethrower
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 9
Bird of Prey
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 80
Pow Wow
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 9
Head Rush
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 14
Kalumete Arete, AKA: Big Chief A…
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 31
Raindance
Sport, TR
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 23
Totally Chawsome
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
Scalper
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 9
All Guns Blazing
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
War Path
 129
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
War Paint
 119
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Route Stealers From Hell
 60
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Mohawk
 107
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Too Light to Wait
 40
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Witch Doctor
 41
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Flamethrower
 21
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Bird of Prey
 9
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Pow Wow
 80
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Head Rush
 9
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Kalumete Arete, AKA: Big Ch…
 14
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Raindance
 31
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, TR
Totally Chawsome
 23
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Scalper
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
All Guns Blazing
 9
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Center Wall »

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phylp
Upland
phylp   Upland
As Aaron says in his comments on Flame Thrower, there are three short steep and hard routes to Flame Thrower's left. I don't trust my memory enough to add these as "official routes" but I'll describe what remember here:
It's highly advisable to use a stick clip for all three routes.
Eye of the Beholder (11d***) has 5 bolts following a crack, with the very tough crux coming between 4 & 5. The opening moves are harder than they look.
Headband (11c***) has 4 bolts, very steep at the bottom.
Sitting Bull (11c**) has 3 bolts and goes to the same anchor as Headband. Crux of both the latter is after the second bolt, at the small roof. Oct 30, 2017