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Routes in Center Wall

All Guns Blazing S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Big Chief Arete S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bird of Prey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blazing Buckets S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Early Bird TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Eat the Worm S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flamethrower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Force Feed S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Funambulist S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Green Hornet S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Head Rush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Killer Bee S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lost Souls S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mohawk S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mud Falcon S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mud Shark S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Peace Dance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Peace Pipe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Pow Wow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Raindance S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Route Stealers From Hell S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Running Bull S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Scalper S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Toilet Earth S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Too Light to Wait S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Totally Chawsome S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Trail of Tears S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Travail Buttress S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wampum S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
War Paint S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
War Path S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Wicked Quickie S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Witch Doctor S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Elevation: 7,012 ft
GPS: 39.245, -120.203 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 32,135 total, 174/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Oct 8, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

The Big Chief Center Wall is just that: it's big. It's basalt, and it contains many climbs for climbers of all abilities (5.7 - 5.13+). Most of the climbs are sport routes in the 5.10 - 5.12 range on primarily overhung rock.

Most routes ascend only one pitch, though there are also a few 2 pitch routes as the top of the main rock, which peaks out at over 200 feet. It does seem that several routes could be added to the higher section of the rock.

Facing mostly east, you will find most routes in the sun for most of the day, though there will be some refuge in the later afternoon. There is also refuge in the cave, where the climbing routes get extremely overhung, tough, and short.

Getting There

Approach time: 15 - 30 minutes.

From the parking lot, head down the main path to the west, which consists of a former gravel road that has large trees cast through the center of it at the parking lot to ensure that people can no longer drive to the former lot.

After .6 miles of gentle dirt road, you will come to the former lot. From here head uphill for about 50 vertical feet on the narrowing trail to a fork. At the fork, you should head right, and this will take you up to the north pass.

From the north pass, hang a left around the rock, and this will take you into the center wall area. The first bolted route you will see is called Eye of the Beholder (5.11c). Continue another 50 yards downhill to the main cave area, and more routes are further along.

33 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Center Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
War Path
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
War Paint
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Route Stealers From Hell
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mohawk
Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Too Light to Wait
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Witch Doctor
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Flamethrower
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bird of Prey
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pow Wow
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Head Rush
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Big Chief Arete
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Raindance
Sport, TR
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Totally Chawsome
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Scalper
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
All Guns Blazing
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
War Path 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
War Paint 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Route Stealers From Hell 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Mohawk 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport, TR
Too Light to Wait 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Witch Doctor 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Flamethrower 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Bird of Prey 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Pow Wow 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Head Rush 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Big Chief Arete 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Raindance 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, TR
Totally Chawsome 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Scalper 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
All Guns Blazing 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Center Wall »

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Photos

phylp
Upland
phylp   Upland
As Aaron says in his comments on Flame Thrower, there are three short steep and hard routes to Flame Thrower's left. I don't trust my memory enough to add these as "official routes" but I'll describe what remember here:
It's highly advisable to use a stick clip for all three routes.
Eye of the Beholder (11d***) has 5 bolts following a crack, with the very tough crux coming between 4 & 5. The opening moves are harder than they look.
Headband (11c***) has 4 bolts, very steep at the bottom.
Sitting Bull (11c**) has 3 bolts and goes to the same anchor as Headband. Crux of both the latter is after the second bolt, at the small roof. Oct 30, 2017

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