Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Mike Hatchett, Dave Hatchett, and Rick Lovelace, 1990
Page Views: 2,997 total · 15/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Aug 22, 2002 with improvements by Billy Simek
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


80 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

In the middle of the Big Chief-center wall cave there sits a climb that doesn't look quite as daunting as the routes that surround it. It starts atop a large boulder and is adjacent to the largest tree on the downhill side of the base area in the .

Climb up a overhung face using huge jugs up straight up the face using four bolts. The crux is located around the fourth bolt, and is a great move. The first bolt of this route is shared with Peace Pipe (5.11d) which heads from the first bolt out to the right, and meets back up at the top anchors.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.

Photos

This is a very jugular and enjoyable route. Not so hard for 5.11A, I think.Try to on-sight and go for the last move! Oct 25, 2002
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.11b
It's 40 feet of sidepulls and undeclings to jugs on steep rock. The route was good, but not a 3-star route, as far as I am concerned. It was in the middle of the 8 routes I did there that day for quality. Even ajusting for the local scale it was at best a 2 star route, but more likely a 1-star. It was harder than the 2 11a's I did just to the left of it, and had a long move up top for short people to have trouble with. My partners that day ranged from 5'1" to 6'4", so I saw a lot of height-differences on a lot of the routes. Sep 29, 2003
426
426  
Last clip is kind of unnecessary, iirc (right next to chains?)...Fun route though. Mar 12, 2007
The crux is not hard for the grade but it is commiting...just go for it! Nov 23, 2007
Colin Brochard
Austin
 
Colin Brochard   Austin
 
Don't see how you can call this a one star. Steep, jugtastic holds with a tricky powerful crux at the end. Short but sweet. Dec 20, 2010
213blc
THA WEST COAST
  5.11a
213blc   THA WEST COAST
  5.11a
Use your feet! That way you can be short and the crux is no problemo :) Aug 31, 2012
Spencer Lennard 1
Applegate, OR
Spencer Lennard 1   Applegate, OR
Is this the route that Matt Stein was on when he died in December? Jan 13, 2019