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Routes in Shipwreck Wall

Avalon S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Conquistador S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lost at Sea S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peg Leg S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skaliwag S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yardarm S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Morgan and Nunez, 2001
Page Views: 656 total, 4/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Aug 23, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route heads directly up the front face on the longest part of the shipwreck wall, and is the next route right of the 5.9 wide crack climb known as Peg Leg. The shiny top anchors can be seen from below on the highest section of sandstone above the center-right section of the black slab.

The first section heads up a slabby face for a few bolts and a 5.10bish move after the first bolt.

Climbing is simple until the crux, which is getting yourself through a diagonal crack system and over the bulge just after the small ledge 35 feet off the ground. After the bulge, the climb has one more move that is on loose sandstone up near the top anchors.

Protection

9 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor. Bring slings for the last few bolts.

Photos

Evan Wisheropp
  5.12b
Evan Wisheropp  
  5.12b
Sweet route! The route is simple up to the crux, with the exception of a few sharp holds around the second bolt if you've been climbing here a few days. The crux is technical. I would give it a redpoint grade of 5.12a for sure, but onsight grade of 5.12b. Don't biff the mantle!!! I'd expect injury for sure. The next two bolts have a few tricky moves to the anchor also. 13 hours ago
Fun climbing up to a hard crux. Harder side of 12a in that section Aug 14, 2016
scalparm
Vienna, Austria
 
scalparm   Vienna, Austria
 
A real quality climb. Tricky and powerful crux. Felt pretty stiff for a 12a. Nov 3, 2014
whipp
 
whipp  
 
Can you say barn door...good fun Nov 20, 2004