Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Morgan and Nunez, 2001
Page Views: 778 total · 4/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Aug 23, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Seasonal raptor nesting Details


This route heads directly up the front face on the longest part of the shipwreck wall, and is the next route right of the 5.9 wide crack climb known as Peg Leg. The shiny top anchors can be seen from below on the highest section of sandstone above the center-right section of the black slab.

The first section heads up a slabby face for a few bolts and a 5.10bish move after the first bolt.

Climbing is simple until the crux, which is getting yourself through a diagonal crack system and over the bulge just after the small ledge 35 feet off the ground. After the bulge, the climb has one more move that is on loose sandstone up near the top anchors.


9 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor. Bring slings for the last few bolts.


Can you say barn door...good fun Nov 20, 2004
Vienna, Austria
scalparm   Vienna, Austria
A real quality climb. Tricky and powerful crux. Felt pretty stiff for a 12a. Nov 3, 2014
Fun climbing up to a hard crux. Harder side of 12a in that section Aug 14, 2016
Evan Wisheropp
Evan Wisheropp  
Sweet route! The route is simple up to the crux, with the exception of a few sharp holds around the second bolt if you've been climbing here a few days. The crux is technical. I would give it a redpoint grade of 5.12a for sure, but onsight grade of 5.12b. Don't biff the mantle!!! I'd expect injury for sure. The next two bolts have a few tricky moves to the anchor also. Nov 19, 2017