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Areas in Salt Point State Park

Bluff Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Call Box Rocks 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Gerstle Cove 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Hidden Boulder 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Johnny Cash Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
North Rock 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Playground, The 2 / 2 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Secrets 0 / 0 / 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Shipwreck Wall 0 / 6 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Shroom Boulder, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
South Face of Sentinel Rock 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
South Rock 0 / 0 / 2 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Treasure Chest, The 1 / 6 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Waterfall Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Description

Salt Point offers incredible, tough climbing at a very beautiful, isolated beach or forest settings north of Jenner.

There are over 20 routes (nearly all sport, along with a 5.7 crack), and over 30 boulder problems as of 3/4/2005, with more being developed. While a good portion of the routes are 5.12 and up, the easier routes are worth the trip (Captain Hook, at 5.10a, is an instant classic). The area is pretty new.

The developed sport climbing at the cove is all located on a crag called Sentinel Rock. This area is sandstone - though a tougher version than that found at other Bay Area sandstone areas. Some parts are a little crumbly, and the holds are occasionally pretty sharp on the hands.

The developed and developing bouldering is all around the park, mostly to the southeast of the parking lot and could eventually yield as many problems as castle rock, though in more secluded settings. Excellent boulders with unique sandstone texture and some shitty landings.

Access to the rock is a non-issue, except in one respect - watch the tides! At high tide or high surf, the Treasure Chest wall will get waves that could soak you and your gear if not drag you out to sea entirely. Watch out for sleeper waves when the belay slab is dry! Avoid high tide there, and use caution to keep you and your pack high and dry.

For current information, see the Salt Point State Park website.

Getting There

Salt Point is located up Hwy 1 from Jenner Beach. The drive is probably at least 2 hours from anywhere south of Marin county.

From the Bay Area, get on 101N until the Hwy 116E Napa/Sonoma exit (in Petaluma).Turn right off the exit onto Lakeville/Hwy 116 heading west. Turn left 1 mile later onto E. Washington St. Follow E. Washington as it becomes Bodega Ave and later Valley Ford Rd, which intersects Hwy 1. Go north on Hwy 1. Fisk Mill Cove is 23 miles north of the intersection of Hwy 116 and Hwy 1.

For Senital Rock, Turn left off the highway at the Fisk Mill Cove sign (it's easily visible from the highway) into a parking lot. Continue west to the second parking lot; a trail leads down to the rock from the far end of this lot.

For Shroomland and other rocks not accessed via the main parking lot:

Park Southeast of the main parking lot at a pullout on the West side of the road at mile marker 42.

55 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Salt Point State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
Traverse
Boulder
V2 5+
Mantle 101
Boulder
V2 5+
Lieback
Boulder
V3 6A
Vise Grip
Boulder
V3 6A
The Wave
Boulder
V4 6B
Tufatafoni Traverse
Boulder
V4 6B
Triceratops
Boulder
V5 6C
Johnny Cash
Boulder
V5 6C
The Slap
Boulder
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spread Eagle (aka Gritty Kitty)
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skaliwag
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peg Leg
Sport, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Captain Hook
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Traverse Call Box Rocks > Quarry V1 5 Boulder
Mantle 101 Call Box Rocks > Quarry V2 5+ Boulder
Lieback Call Box Rocks > Quarry V2 5+ Boulder
Vise Grip Shroom Boulder V3 6A Boulder
The Wave Secrets > Wave V3 6A Boulder
Tufatafoni Traverse Call Box Rocks > Stoney Whiteboots Boulder V4 6B Boulder
Triceratops Secrets > Triceratops Boulder V4 6B Boulder
Johnny Cash Johnny Cash Boulders V5 6C Boulder
The Slap Call Box Rocks > Quarry V5 6C Boulder
Spread Eagle (aka Gritty Ki… Treasure Chest 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Skaliwag Shipwreck Wall 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Peg Leg Shipwreck Wall 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Captain Hook Treasure Chest 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Sport, TR
More Classic Climbs in Salt Point State Park »

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Photos

Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
I've setup top ropes on many of these climbs... That said it's SCARY, and by no means "safe". You can rappel from the observation tower to setup top anchors for most of the routes on the main wall if you're creative.

For the other comment from Hein - yes, you can still climb here, but the access to the rocks now comes from a prominent pullout .4 miles past the old parking lot (which you'll see is very closed.) on the West side of the road. I asked a ranger at the campground about what the deal was, and she pointed out the pullout to me on a map. Head through the fence following the thin path. Head left at the fork a few hundred yards down, cross the stream and gain access to the beach. The main wall is directly in front of you several hundred yards ahead. The new approach took me 12 minutes in flip flops. Aug 1, 2011
chuckc  
Hi,

I would like to top rope here and was curious about the safety of the scramble approaches. It seems like a lot of the anchors are accessible from the top. Would a scramble out to create an anchor, followed by a rappel down be an appropriate method to TR these routes? Or are the approaches to the anchor really steep and dangerous?

Thanks in advance.

-Charles Jun 24, 2011
Can we change the name of this rock to Salt Point since that is the area that includes Fisk Mill Cove? It would make posting other rocks in the Salt Point area easier. Sep 3, 2004
Brian Quiter
Oakland, CA
Brian Quiter   Oakland, CA
There is most certainly some good bouldering here! Winecountry Rocks is currently the best book that describes the bouldering in the area. None of it has been put on the web site becaues Aron and I haven't spent much time bouldering there, and Drunkenmaster is understandably climbing rather than adding routes. Oct 24, 2003
Any good bouldering there besides the routes? Oct 23, 2003
This is a great location to do a lot of different recreational activities. There's good SCUBA diving and great free diving for abalone (only take 3 per person and only with a license).

Also, there's great camping there, or if you're a little sore, you can go down the road a bit to Salt Point, where there are accommodations with hot tubs.

This place has the makings of a great weekend! Sep 12, 2003

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