Elevation: 137 ft
GPS: 38.594, -123.344 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 144,952 total · 694/month
Shared By: jared toettcher on Aug 25, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
Access Issue: Covid-19 Closures! Details

Description

Salt Point offers incredible, tough climbing at a very beautiful, isolated beach or forest settings north of Jenner.

There are over 20 routes (nearly all sport, along with a 5.7 crack), and over 30 boulder problems as of 3/4/2005, with more being developed. While a good portion of the routes are 5.12 and up, the easier routes are worth the trip (Captain Hook, at 5.10a, is an instant classic). The area is pretty new.

The developed sport climbing at the cove is all located on a crag called Sentinel Rock. This area is sandstone - though a tougher version than that found at other Bay Area sandstone areas. Some parts are a little crumbly, and the holds are occasionally pretty sharp on the hands.

The developed and developing bouldering is all around the park, mostly to the southeast of the parking lot and could eventually yield as many problems as castle rock, though in more secluded settings. Excellent boulders with unique sandstone texture and some shitty landings.

Access to the rock is a non-issue, except in one respect - watch the tides! At high tide or high surf, the Treasure Chest wall will get waves that could soak you and your gear if not drag you out to sea entirely. Watch out for sleeper waves when the belay slab is dry! Avoid high tide there, and use caution to keep you and your pack high and dry.

For current information, see the Salt Point State Park website.

Getting There

Salt Point is located up Hwy 1 from Jenner Beach. The drive is probably at least 2 hours from anywhere south of Marin county.

From the Bay Area, get on 101N until the Hwy 116E Napa/Sonoma exit (in Petaluma).Turn right off the exit onto Lakeville/Hwy 116 heading west. Turn left 1 mile later onto E. Washington St. Follow E. Washington as it becomes Bodega Ave and later Valley Ford Rd, which intersects Hwy 1. Go north on Hwy 1. Fisk Mill Cove is 23 miles north of the intersection of Hwy 116 and Hwy 1.

For Senital Rock, Turn left off the highway at the Fisk Mill Cove sign (it's easily visible from the highway) into a parking lot. Continue west to the second parking lot; a trail leads down to the rock from the far end of this lot.

For Shroomland and other rocks not accessed via the main parking lot:

Park Southeast of the main parking lot at a pullout on the West side of the road at mile marker 42.

93 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Salt Point State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
 18
The Wave
Boulder
V3 6A
 27
Vise Grip
Boulder
V4 6B
 33
Tufatafoni Traverse
Boulder
V4 6B
 29
Triceratops
Boulder
V4 6B PG13
 6
Sabertooth
Boulder
V4 6B
 11
Gerstle Cove Roof
Boulder
V4 6B R
 4
Brainwave
Boulder
V5 6C
 9
Emerald Urchin
Boulder
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 47
Peg Leg
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 27
Skaliwag
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 19
Captain Hook
Sport, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 26
Lost at Sea
Sport, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 8
Crows Nest
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 9
Yardarm
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 4
The Patriot
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Wave Secrets > Wave
 18
V2 5+ Boulder
Vise Grip Shroom Boulder
 27
V3 6A Boulder
Tufatafoni Traverse Call Box Rocks > Stoney Whiteboots Bou…
 33
V4 6B Boulder
Triceratops Secrets > Triceratops Boulder
 29
V4 6B Boulder
Sabertooth Secrets > Sabertooth
 6
V4 6B PG13 Boulder
Gerstle Cove Roof Gerstle Cove
 11
V4 6B Boulder
Brainwave Secrets > Wave
 4
V4 6B R Boulder
Emerald Urchin Gerstle Cove
 9
V5 6C Boulder
Peg Leg Shipwreck Wall
 47
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Skaliwag Shipwreck Wall
 27
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Captain Hook Treasure Chest
 19
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Sport, TR
Lost at Sea Shipwreck Wall
 26
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport, TR
Crows Nest Shipwreck Wall
 8
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Yardarm Shipwreck Wall
 9
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
The Patriot Shipwreck Wall
 4
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Salt Point State Park »

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