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Routes in Shipwreck Wall

Avalon S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Conquistador S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lost at Sea S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Peg Leg S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Skaliwag S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yardarm S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Description

Shipwreck Wall is home to a nice selection of difficult, vertical sandstone climbs. The rock is mostly solid, although it gets crumbly near the top of some routes and in any area not yet developed. Routes range from a few short, easier 5.9 to 5.11 climbs to 80' 5.12 fun. Judging by the appearance of recent bolt lines, this wall is still being developed.Shipwreck Wall is in direct sunlight through the whole afternoon. Enjoy the sunset!

Getting There

In the following, I'm assuming that the ocean is due west of the Fisk Mill Cove beach.

Shipwreck Wall is located on the northwest side of Sentinel Rock (assuming the ocean is directly west at that point).

Take the northwest trail at the end of the parking lot. Continue past the sign that says Sentinel Rock (that path leads to the observation deck above the climbing areas) and follow the sketchy staircase on your left to the beach. Sentinel Rock is the large sandstone crag on the south end of the beach (on the left). Walk around the rock, clambering across the big beach rocks, to the ocean-facing side. When you see bolts, you've reached Shipwreck Wall.

6 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Shipwreck Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skaliwag
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Peg Leg
Sport, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Skaliwag
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Peg Leg
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
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Photos

Climbed there last week and did not spot any nesting cormorants, but HOLY COW was there a lot of shit on the wall. My shoes and hands were white from bird shit after climbing skaliwag and I repeatedly grabbed and knocked down barfed-up bone pellets on the ledges. Stuff on the left side was better but I did spot a Peregrine land on the wall to the left. Sep 6, 2017
Confirming John's comment. Cormorant actively nesting on the wall at the treasure chest, and Falcons were buzzing me as i stood atop the rock/tried to approach from the beach. As of 7/8, i would still shy away from climbing here, or at least approach cautiously. A photographer told me she was just protecting a sea gull she had just killed, and is no longer nesting

Also, heads up on poison oak in the woods! Jul 10, 2017
John Hovell
San Francisco, California
John Hovell   San Francisco, California
As of June 4, 2017 there is at least one active raptor nest on Shiprock wall. We did not notice the nest which is far to the left of Yard Arm below another set of unknown anchors, but upon climbing the route that splits from Yard Arm a member of our group was repeatedly dive-bombed by the nesting birds and got some talons to the scalp for his persistence. Getting our draws back was an ordeal and at least a little bit scary (pro tip you can rap off the observation deck at the top of the wall for a speedy draw removal. Second pro tip: maintaining eye contact with the birds seemed to make them less likely to strike).

I'd recommend avoiding this wall until possibly much later in the season when the raptor fledglings have left the nest... at the very least I would stay far right of the wall, perhaps the routes to the right of Yard Arm but even still the birds were bothering other climbers (and vice versa apparently).

I notice this area does not have any notices about nesting closures, guessing that might be because there's no governing body. If we were in a closed area it was due to ignorance. First time fighting with a bird to be up on a wall and I can say it's not fun. Jun 5, 2017

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