Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: Nunez/Morgan, 2001
Page Views: 2,693 total · 14/month
Shared By: jared toettcher on Aug 23, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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33 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal raptor nesting Details

Description

This slightly overhung route makes an excellent warmup, if you're planning on doing many other climbs on the Shipwreck Wall (seeing as how they're mostly 5.12s).

To find this climb, look just to the right of the flake chimney at the left side of Shipwreck Wall. Follow the bolt line following the climb about 20' shorter than any nearby.

Protection

6 bolts to 2 bolt anchor

Photos

Aron Quiter
Oakland, CA
  5.9
Aron Quiter   Oakland, CA  
  5.9
Jared's description is a little deceptive:The first bolt of this climb is actually a staple (ring?) about 20 feet off the ground, and the staples of the route are the easiest way to indentify the route. If you want protection before this, bring a sling and clip into the first bolt of Yardarm (5.12b) that is just left of this route, though probably the best way to start the route anyways. May 7, 2004
whipp
  5.10a
whipp  
  5.10a
Alright, so, I believe in my heart of hearts that this route is solid 10a.This rating has gone on in many discussions and yes the overall the holds are good but the moves require some long reaches and open hands and a little more technique than a 5.9 rating would yield. Specifically the moves just after the 2nd bolt( if you count,and you should, the bolt for conquistador and yardarm.Safer)and the top just before the last bolt. With that said this route kicks ass. Theres my 2 cents. Sep 8, 2004
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
  5.10-
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
  5.10-
This is definitely harder than 5.9. I'd like to see a 5.9 leader send this, anyway. The crux after the second bolt, as Whipp says, is more technical and reachy than you'd expect of the grade. Wish I knew some more serious climbers who frequent this area. None of my Bay Area climbing buddies have been willing to make the trip. Aug 20, 2006
Jerry Dodrill
Bodega, CA
  5.10a/b
Jerry Dodrill   Bodega, CA
  5.10a/b
Agree that it's 5.10 something. Staples? They are fat titanium glue-ins. Was with Jordy when they were installed. Sweet for salt water environs. I'll venture to add another star to the rating, comparative to N. Coast climbs only. Stop and say HEY in Bodega. Jun 2, 2007
Superdavinit
Santa Rosa, California
  5.9
Superdavinit   Santa Rosa, California
  5.9
Climbed this route this past weekend! Id affirm the 5.9 grade. There are two points, 1 after the second bolt, and 1 after the big dish/hueco, at the top, that are 5.9+ moves, but I dont think they raise the route to 5.10a. I led it no problem first go, and have only lead up to 5.10d at this point in my climbing. Wish is was slightly more sustained. That said, the person I was with thought it was closer to 10a. Also, be ready for the stinky bird-shit ledge after pulling the last move. The last move also involves grabbing a bird poo (dried) covered ledge. Fun route. Oct 5, 2015
River Saul
Oakland, CA
  5.10a
River Saul   Oakland, CA
  5.10a
As a shorter climber, only the hueco crux at the top was hard for me to stretch and stick any viable holds. My tall male friend found it difficult to pull the crux after the 2nd bolt which requires a high step. It was a spectacular and very interesting route!

By the way, to the other trio of climbers at shipwreck wall Jun/11, I would still love to exchange pictures. Jun 12, 2016
Great route! Super fun pulling on the big pockets over the slightly overhanging wall.
Watch out for waves here! The surf was super rough when we were there, and this was the only route accessible. Jun 24, 2016
Nick Andrew
  5.10a/b
Nick Andrew  
  5.10a/b
Really love this route! But I will say, compared to other climbs in the area there is no way this goes at 5.9.. Just wanted to add my opinion to the mix. An amazing adventure of a route though with hard moves near the beginning and end + sustained and REALLY fun climbing in between. I think it deserves "classic" status. Sep 10, 2017