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Routes in Surf Tower

Caught Inside S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Dave Stallard
Page Views: 370 total · 2/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 28, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, Refuge Jared, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Raptors have left the quarry, all normal walls are open Details
Access Issue: The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details


The only existing route on the Surf Tower, this route is on the way way right side, on the tower that sits on the right side of the cliff.

Climb using anything you can find for the first two bolts, and afterwards the climbing gets considerably simpler. From the top, you get an excellent view of the lower Auburn Cliffs and also the canyon beyond.


9 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.


- No Photos -
anybody done this route lately? I kinda gave up after nearly kicking my belayer in the head a couple times while falling at the second. Uhh....breakage? Oct 17, 2013
No breakage, its always been a hard / funky start slightly sandbagged. Once you know the sequence it is easier, but still funky. Oct 18, 2013
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
The start is committing with poor feet and accidentally sandbagged. Probably .11a? I think the first bolt could stand to be moved up about 2 feet, or even a bolt added between 1 & 2 (there is a decent left hand hold to clip off) to make it a safe ground up lead. It is actually cool climbing, but you gotta be solid and stick your neck out to clip bolt 2. I cannonballed my good friend Captain Choss at least 3 times trying to lead this thing.

The other option is to do some chimney junk to the right to get the second bolt clipped. Oct 18, 2013
Steve Montesanto
  5.10c PG13
Steve Montesanto  
  5.10c PG13
Did the climb today for the first time. A little scary getting to the 2nd bolt but not too bad. The route can stand a very thorough cleaning up higher....still lots of loose stuff up there. Nov 1, 2013
Leo Ramirez  
Climbed it on Saturday (11/30/13). The rock down at the bottom if very slippery (In fact slipped and fell just getting off the ground so heads up). I don't think this route is run-out, however, due to the slickness and insecure moves at the bottom, IMHO not a 10c (if you get on it make sure u are solid at 10c). Either way, there is still some loose stuff at the top near the roof. This route is excellent and it is now one of my favorites. I will have to go back for the red point. Dec 2, 2013
Ben Broche
San Francisco, CA
Ben Broche   San Francisco, CA
First route at the Quarry and a confusing onsight for .10c...felt more .10d/.11a ish compared with the other routes we climbed there. Interesting/cool route though (but a wee bit chossy toward the top) Jan 6, 2014
Tatiana Cottam
Oakland, CA
Tatiana Cottam   Oakland, CA
Great, fun route. Chimney start on the right is easier than left side. Rocks *will* fall off on this route (had 5 people climb the route and everything from pebbles to hand-sized blocks fell off the route during every single climb).
Mar 30, 2016
Kerry Peterson
Kerry Peterson  
Getting to the first bolt seemed trickiest for me, I'd recommend a stick clip. After the second bolt I felt the climbing eased up significantly. Jul 19, 2016
Danny Herrera
San Bruno, CA
Danny Herrera   San Bruno, CA
The entire boulder below the 6th bolt shifted a few inches yesterday, my partner wasn't sure if you were supposed to take the slick part to the left, or the rockier part on the right. wound up rapping off the 5th bolt. Nov 13, 2016
Know what your getting into, this rock is extremely loose. BE CAREFUL!!!! I tried to avoid the arĂȘte at all cost, concerned about knocking down a death block on my belayer. With that being said though, the movements throughout this climb are really fun!! May 13, 2017
Brice Pollock
Oakland, CA
Brice Pollock   Oakland, CA  
I slid down many times trying to lead to bolt 1, after that you have to be very heads up to avoid ground fall on bolt two. After which the climb gets its rhythm. The low crux made me back down from the lead on this one. I tried at one point to go up the broken rocks and traverse over to the bolts, but huge blocks move in there.

Would be a two star climb or more if you weren't constantly worried about dislodging rock. You'll kill someone if you go too far right. May 13, 2018

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