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Routes in Surf Tower

Caught Inside S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Dave Stallard
Page Views: 265 total, 2/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jun 28, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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28 Opinions

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Access Notes Details
The State Rec Area closes at dusk - most parking areas are self-paid Details

Description

The only existing route on the Surf Tower, this route is on the way way right side, on the tower that sits on the right side of the cliff.

Climb using anything you can find for the first two bolts, and afterwards the climbing gets considerably simpler. From the top, you get an excellent view of the lower Auburn Cliffs and also the canyon beyond.

Protection

9 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.

Photos

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jmccormick  
 
Know what your getting into, this rock is extremely loose. BE CAREFUL!!!! I tried to avoid the arête at all cost, concerned about knocking down a death block on my belayer. With that being said though, the movements throughout this climb are really fun!! May 13, 2017
Danny Herrera
San Bruno, California
Danny Herrera   San Bruno, California
The entire boulder below the 6th bolt shifted a few inches yesterday, my partner wasn't sure if you were supposed to take the slick part to the left, or the rockier part on the right. wound up rapping off the 5th bolt. Nov 13, 2016
Kerry Peterson
  5.10b/c
Kerry Peterson  
  5.10b/c
Getting to the first bolt seemed trickiest for me, I'd recommend a stick clip. After the second bolt I felt the climbing eased up significantly. Jul 19, 2016
Tatiana Cottam
Oakland, CA
  5.10d
Tatiana Cottam   Oakland, CA
  5.10d
Great, fun route. Chimney start on the right is easier than left side. Rocks *will* fall off on this route (had 5 people climb the route and everything from pebbles to hand-sized blocks fell off the route during every single climb).
Mar 30, 2016
Ben Broche
San Francisco, CA
5.10d
Ben Broche   San Francisco, CA
5.10d
First route at the Quarry and a confusing onsight for .10c...felt more .10d/.11a ish compared with the other routes we climbed there. Interesting/cool route though (but a wee bit chossy toward the top) Jan 6, 2014
Leo Ramirez  
 
Climbed it on Saturday (11/30/13). The rock down at the bottom if very slippery (In fact slipped and fell just getting off the ground so heads up). I don't think this route is run-out, however, due to the slickness and insecure moves at the bottom, IMHO not a 10c (if you get on it make sure u are solid at 10c). Either way, there is still some loose stuff at the top near the roof. This route is excellent and it is now one of my favorites. I will have to go back for the red point. Dec 2, 2013
Steve Montesanto
  5.10c PG13
Steve Montesanto  
  5.10c PG13
Did the climb today for the first time. A little scary getting to the 2nd bolt but not too bad. The route can stand a very thorough cleaning up higher....still lots of loose stuff up there. Nov 1, 2013
caughtinside
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
The start is committing with poor feet and accidentally sandbagged. Probably .11a? I think the first bolt could stand to be moved up about 2 feet, or even a bolt added between 1 & 2 (there is a decent left hand hold to clip off) to make it a safe ground up lead. It is actually cool climbing, but you gotta be solid and stick your neck out to clip bolt 2. I cannonballed my good friend Captain Choss at least 3 times trying to lead this thing.

The other option is to do some chimney junk to the right to get the second bolt clipped. Oct 18, 2013
Rough
 
Rough  
 
No breakage, its always been a hard / funky start slightly sandbagged. Once you know the sequence it is easier, but still funky. Oct 18, 2013
anybody done this route lately? I kinda gave up after nearly kicking my belayer in the head a couple times while falling at the second. Uhh....breakage? Oct 17, 2013