Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: T. Worsfold 1990
Page Views: 226 total · 1/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Aug 23, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Riddler is the second bolted climb on the diagnol ledge cutting up and left across the left half of Mayhem Cove.As mentioned above, the first bolt is a long way off the ground, but it is pretty easy to reach (though hard to spot)unless your ~5.8 or shorter. In this case its a scary-as-hell clip!From there, pull the roof, continue on some overhanging, and occasionally dirty, climbing until you reach a left-facing block. After pulling the block the climbing all-of-the-sudden turns slabby, runout and mossy. While the overhanging section of the climb kicked ass, this mossy section seemed to be a completely different climb and the source of a lot of rope drag... i honestly didn't finish it.

Protection

10 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The first bolt is about 18 feet of the deck, and if you fall before clipping, you will continue to slide, bounce and roll down the precarious ledge from where the climb begins. To save your and your belayer's lives making an anchor is a wonderful idea. Almost any sized cam will do.

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HarrisonE
  5.11a
HarrisonE  
  5.11a
I don't know what the safety of his route was in 2002(when this was posted), but I climbed it the other day and it was perfectly safe, 10 bolts, crux up high after the dihedral crack. Great moves, leading it on trad gear would be cool. Apr 27, 2013
I agree with harrison (11a with stars). This climb starts to the right of the bush on the diagonal legde mentioned in the description. the first bolt is just off the ground (now). the climb is clean, fun and safe. after pulling over the dihedral to the slab there is two pitons to the left of the bolt. I wonder what those guys who placed them were up to. May 6, 2013
Todd Worsfold
San Francisco, CA
  5.11b/c PG13
Todd Worsfold   San Francisco, CA
  5.11b/c PG13
When I did the FA in 1990, the transition from trad to sport climbing was still happening and many of us felt that bolts should only be placed where necessary. A number of routes thus required carrying both gear and draws. The Riddler was established as a mixed (gear/bolted) route and not intended to be sport/bolts only. I protected the start with a #3 friend under the first overlap, and there may have been other gear (pins and wires?) as well. It is probably a good thing that bolts were added (by whom?) to make it more accessible to those carrying only a rack of draws...and also more well traveled and thus cleaner. It really is an awesome line! Feb 11, 2018