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Routes in Indian Rock

Blowing Bubbles S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cum Slot T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dismal Abysmal S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Donkey Dong S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
High On Testosterone T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hocus S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Jail Bird S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Krokus S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Puckered Starfish S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
South Face S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strip Poker S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Viscious Circles S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: David Caunt
Page Views: 4,782 total, 26/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jul 6, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

Located in the middle of the south side, this route is nearly always in the shade.

This interesting climb isn't too much about power, just keeping yourself balanced on a route with minimal footholds. There's a 5.11 move in the bottom near the first bolt that involves a smear move, and then sustained 5.11 lieback from the second bolt to the top, getting tougher as you move up. The crux is getting yourself to the top anchors, as the feet are non-existant in this section.

For an added burn, link this up with hocus.

Protection

3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. On lead, you can protect the section after the first bolt with a large (2 1/2" - 4") friend.

Bring short slings (3') for a top rope. The top of this route can be accessed without climbing it by moving across the slab below the large honeycomb structure.

Photos

A truly beautiful route that rewards slow static foot movements, creative sequencing, unbelievable body tension on nothing foot bumps, and above all, strong mental focus. The mind is silent with concentration much of the way through.

It took me 10+ burns across multiple sessions to send, a true labor of love.

Big but safe falls.

Castle Rock classic. May 1, 2016
Julian Bobilev
  5.11d PG13
Julian Bobilev  
  5.11d PG13
Amazing line! The crux upper arete may only be about 10 feet tall but you have to do about ten-fifteen sustained moves in that segment. Pretty safe climb as both the runout segment to the cam placement and the runout to the bolt above that are only about 5.8-5.9. Wish more people did this climb! Hoping for a redpoint soon.

Edit: Now that I've redpointed, going to respect the historic 5.11d grade, this feels 5.12a to me though. Apr 4, 2016
Anders
Berkeley
Anders   Berkeley
This climb is hard. I haven't sent it yet. So far it feels like solid 5.12. Way harder than Donkey Dong. More to follow when I finally figure out the moves... Nov 17, 2014
Greg Collins  
 
Excellent climb. Like the previous poster, Ive fallen more times on this than I care to remember. Blue camalot protects the step across - but probrably not needed. Bolt placement makes it not at all scary, but uber frustrating to keep slowly coming off the moves. Fun climb to work and very subtle changes reap huge rewards. Ive give it a "relative" great....great for the area Jan 23, 2006
I took many lead falls trying to get this route, watch your shins! I didn't think it was run out too much. #9 metolius I believe,or a big hex to protect the mungy middle of the climb. There were a couple of pockets in/near the crux that offer decent holds. I got to the anchors but never redpointed. Oh yeah, that was 8-9 years ago. I live in boulder now and still think of this route. Aug 19, 2004