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Routes in Indian Rock

Blowing Bubbles S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cum Slot T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dismal Abysmal S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Donkey Dong S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
High On Testosterone T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hocus S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Jail Bird S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Krokus S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Puckered Starfish S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
South Face S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strip Poker S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Viscious Circles S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft
FA: David Caunt
Page Views: 7,111 total, 38/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jul 6, 2002 with updates
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

Climb the arete on the right side of the South face, working mostly around the corner in the tall narrow pocket. The climb consists of a large juggy haul up an overhung section of the rock, with a fun reachy finish at the top.

For the 12a finish, work up and well left from the fourth bolt, and it's 11c if you continue up the arete.

Be mindful that even though you've climbed the first 10 feet of the climb, there is stall groundfall (or slabfall, I guess) after the first bolt.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The anchor is not on the top of the climb, but over the bulge. If you want to toprope this climb bring longish slings for the anchor.

Unfortunately there are no rap rings on the anchor but you can walk along the top of the ridge and rap from another point.
Julian Bobilev
  5.11b
Julian Bobilev  
  5.11b
Not sure how the right variation climbed before the dong fell off, but it's definitely no harder than 5.11b now - I could even see 5.11a. Haven't tried the left finish yet. Top 5 Castle Rock route for sure. May 1, 2016
Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
  5.11c
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
  5.11c
.10c to a V3 dyno. Feb 29, 2016
David Cook
  5.10c/d
David Cook  
  5.10c/d
Awesome and cool route! But, compared to other castle rock climbs that i have done, definitely not 12a or 11d. There is no move harder than v3, and it is rather short for a sport climb. Compared to the other 5.11s and 5.12s (Krokus, Jailbird), this route is far easier. But, none the less, climb this route! It climbs super well and decide the grade for your self May 30, 2015
JJ Foley
San Francisco, California
  5.12-
JJ Foley   San Francisco, California
  5.12-
I think this route is 11d or 12-

Once you have a couple burns, figure the out beta for clipping and the rests, and get comfortable on it, it doesn't feel like 12a. Onsight could be 12a for sure.

Even the final move to the jug which seemed huge the first time i tried it isnt too bad once you get it dialed in.

11d IMHO.

Great route. Sep 1, 2014
So how hard is this thing now, post-breakage? Apr 19, 2013
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
Dong-less Donkey is pretty good. Or maybe Donkey Vah-jay-jay? Nov 5, 2010
KyleAnderson
San Francisco, CA
KyleAnderson   San Francisco, CA
i would like to call it dong-less donkey Oct 6, 2010
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
I can't believe the dong is gone! This climb was one of my first 11 sends, I was pretty psyched on it. I guess we all knew it was only a matter of time since you could see daylight in that fissure between the dong and the wall. It should be renamed simply Donkey now. Sep 14, 2010
Tommy L-D
  5.11b
Tommy L-D  
  5.11b
Checked it out yesterday, the Dong is indeed gone. Gives me a little peace of mind not having to pull/avoid pulling on that thing. Jun 24, 2010
b.gagnon
Oakland, CA
  5.11c
b.gagnon   Oakland, CA
  5.11c
Since the dong fell, it goes much easier now. Jun 21, 2010
Blitzo  
I couldn't pull it, but it looks cool! Sep 12, 2006
I did 11C version. Unlike other Castle Rock routes which are full of slopers, the 11C version is full of big holds! (except for the 2 holds before reaching the finalhold). This reminds me of limestone cliffs back in Japan.The grade may be easy till the last crux move. So, go for it! Sep 11, 2002
Brian Quiter
Oakland, CA
Brian Quiter   Oakland, CA
If you plan on doing the 12a finish, i would suggest clearing the moss first, because right now its really mossy. Jul 9, 2002