Type: Sport, TR, 30 ft
FA: David Caunt
Page Views: 8,120 total · 40/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jul 6, 2002 with updates from Lukas Wiborg
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details


Climb the arete on the right side of the South face, working mostly around the corner in the tall narrow pocket. The climb consists of a large juggy haul up an overhung section of the rock, with a fun reachy finish at the top.

For the 12a finish, work up and well left from the fourth bolt, and it's 11c if you continue up the arete.

Be mindful that even though you've climbed the first 10 feet of the climb, there is stall groundfall (or slabfall, I guess) after the first bolt.


5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The anchor is not on the top of the climb, but over the bulge. If you want to toprope this climb bring longish slings for the anchor.

Unfortunately there are no rap rings on the anchor but you can walk along the top of the ridge and rap from another point.
Brian Quiter
Oakland, CA
Brian Quiter   Oakland, CA
If you plan on doing the 12a finish, i would suggest clearing the moss first, because right now its really mossy. Jul 9, 2002
I did 11C version. Unlike other Castle Rock routes which are full of slopers, the 11C version is full of big holds! (except for the 2 holds before reaching the finalhold). This reminds me of limestone cliffs back in Japan.The grade may be easy till the last crux move. So, go for it! Sep 11, 2002
I couldn't pull it, but it looks cool! Sep 12, 2006
Oakland, CA
b.gagnon   Oakland, CA
Since the dong fell, it goes much easier now. Jun 21, 2010
Tommy L-D
Tommy L-D  
Checked it out yesterday, the Dong is indeed gone. Gives me a little peace of mind not having to pull/avoid pulling on that thing. Jun 24, 2010
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
I can't believe the dong is gone! This climb was one of my first 11 sends, I was pretty psyched on it. I guess we all knew it was only a matter of time since you could see daylight in that fissure between the dong and the wall. It should be renamed simply Donkey now. Sep 14, 2010
KyleAnderson Anderson
San Francisco, CA
KyleAnderson Anderson   San Francisco, CA
i would like to call it dong-less donkey Oct 6, 2010
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
Dong-less Donkey is pretty good. Or maybe Donkey Vah-jay-jay? Nov 5, 2010
So how hard is this thing now, post-breakage? Apr 19, 2013
JJ Foley
San Francisco, California
JJ Foley   San Francisco, California
I think this route is 11d or 12-

Once you have a couple burns, figure the out beta for clipping and the rests, and get comfortable on it, it doesn't feel like 12a. Onsight could be 12a for sure.

Even the final move to the jug which seemed huge the first time i tried it isnt too bad once you get it dialed in.

11d IMHO.

Great route. Sep 1, 2014
Your moms house
A C   Your moms house
Awesome and cool route! But, compared to other castle rock climbs that i have done, definitely not 12a or 11d. There is no move harder than v3, and it is rather short for a sport climb. Compared to the other 5.11s and 5.12s (Krokus, Jailbird), this route is far easier. But, none the less, climb this route! It climbs super well and decide the grade for your self May 30, 2015
Kelley Gilleran
Sacramento, Ca
Kelley Gilleran   Sacramento, Ca
.10c to a V3 dyno. Feb 29, 2016
Latvian climber
Latvian climber  
Not sure how the right variation climbed before the dong fell off, but it's definitely no harder than 5.11b now - I could even see 5.11a. Haven't tried the left finish yet. Top 5 Castle Rock route for sure. May 1, 2016
Dhruv Modi
Dhruv Modi   Chicago
4th bolt spins as of December 2017. Sketchy fall possibility right at the crux, but otherwise it is a great route. Dec 29, 2017
Austin Donisan
San Mateo, CA
Austin Donisan   San Mateo, CA
The left variation felt easier for me at 5'7". Solid crimps then a good hueco out left. Mar 31, 2018