5.11c/d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 3.2 from 82 votes
|Type:||Sport, TR, 30 ft (9 m)|
|Page Views:||12,241 total · 49/month|
|Shared By:||Aron Quiter on Jul 6, 2002 · Updates|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
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Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
For the 12a finish, work up and well left from the fourth bolt, and it's 11c if you continue up the arete.
Be mindful that even though you've climbed the first 10 feet of the climb, there is stall groundfall (or slabfall, I guess) after the first bolt.
5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. The anchor is not on the top of the climb, but over the bulge. If you want to toprope this climb bring either two single length slings or a double length quad or equalized sling for the anchor.
There are quick links on both anchor bolts, however the bolts are on either side of a fin which would be a nightmare to try to pass rope over, more worth it to either lower off of one of the bolts’ quicklinks or leave draws up there and clean them by scrambling along the summit arête to the top of the route.