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Routes in Indian Rock

Blowing Bubbles S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cum Slot T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dismal Abysmal S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Donkey Dong S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
High On Testosterone T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hocus S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Jail Bird S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Krokus S,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a R
Puckered Starfish S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
South Face S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strip Poker S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Viscious Circles S,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,953 total, 16/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jul 6, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

This is the left most bolted climb on the lower face. The fourth bolt seems like it would only contribute rope drag, as the route is "done" after the second clip.

The crux is between the first and second clips, and invlves an awkward balancy move that is a dyno for short people. There are 4 huecos in and after the crux, and the friction on all of them sucks.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor. Walk off or bring long (10' +) slings for a top rope.

Photos

Nick Andrew
  5.10d
Nick Andrew  
  5.10d
After climbing this a few times over the last couple of years I have to agree with Jim Thornburg's guidebook. This route is solid 10d in my opinion, and it seems to give shorter climbers a LOT of trouble. I laughed when I grabbed the first scoop and felt how little I had to work with in terms of friction. Stick-clip makes things a lot less stressful.. A very fun route though!! One of my favorites in the Bay Area. Sep 10, 2017
Fun route. I had commitment issues going out for the first bolt, but pretty smooth sailing after that. The pockets don't have a good lip that you can really grab, but if you lean the right way and sequence it properly there is plenty there to get you up.

I found feet to be critical, and lots of high stepping into the pockets I used previously for hands allowed me to really push my hips into the wall which made for better clipping stances. Jun 12, 2016
steple
  5.10
steple  
  5.10
I agree with Bruce - you miss out if you don't clip the fourth bolt and skip the mantle. Jan 28, 2012
Alec S
Berkeley, CA
 
Alec S   Berkeley, CA
 
Cool route. The difficulty of the crux depends a lot on how tall you are. I can see someone tall(er than me) having no problem with hitting the second bolt. I had a bit more trouble. Jul 31, 2010
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Didn't feel 10c. Sep 12, 2006
Bruce Morris
Belmont, CA
Bruce Morris   Belmont, CA
Actually, the 4th bolt is not gratuitous. When you clip it, you traverse left and finish the route by doing a left-hand mantle up on a tiny edge to a sloper. This adds another 5.10 move to the route. Jun 28, 2006
cool slopers, tricky high step. great TR setup. Aug 19, 2004