Type: Sport, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,817 total · 19/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jul 6, 2002
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

This is the left most bolted climb on the lower face. The fourth bolt seems like it would only contribute rope drag, as the route is "done" after the second clip.

The crux is between the first and second clips, and invlves an awkward balancy move that is a dyno for short people. There are 4 huecos in and after the crux, and the friction on all of them sucks.

Protection

4 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor. Walk off or bring long (10' +) slings for a top rope.

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The route follows the leftmost bolt line. Slabby climbing at the start leads to a good rest. Get in position and climb your way up the circular depressions that are much worse than they look.
The route follows the leftmost bolt line. Slabb…
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Climbing into the sun.
Climbing into the sun.
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7/7/2002
7/7/2002
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a tricky lead
a tricky lead
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Brian lunges for the second hueco at the crux.
Brian lunges for the second hueco at the crux.
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7 Comments

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Anonymous Coward
Anonymous Coward  
cool slopers, tricky high step. great TR setup. Aug 19, 2004
Bruce Morris
Soulsbyville, CA
Bruce Morris   Soulsbyville, CA
Actually, the 4th bolt is not gratuitous. When you clip it, you traverse left and finish the route by doing a left-hand mantle up on a tiny edge to a sloper. This adds another 5.10 move to the route. Jun 28, 2006
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Didn't feel 10c. Sep 12, 2006
Alec S
Berkeley, CA
 
Alec S   Berkeley, CA
 
Cool route. The difficulty of the crux depends a lot on how tall you are. I can see someone tall(er than me) having no problem with hitting the second bolt. I had a bit more trouble. Jul 31, 2010
steple
  5.10
steple  
  5.10
I agree with Bruce - you miss out if you don't clip the fourth bolt and skip the mantle. Jan 28, 2012
Joe Anderson 1
Joe Anderson 1  
Fun route. I had commitment issues going out for the first bolt, but pretty smooth sailing after that. The pockets don't have a good lip that you can really grab, but if you lean the right way and sequence it properly there is plenty there to get you up.

I found feet to be critical, and lots of high stepping into the pockets I used previously for hands allowed me to really push my hips into the wall which made for better clipping stances. Jun 12, 2016
Nick Andrew
  5.10d
Nick Andrew  
  5.10d
After climbing this a few times over the last couple of years I have to agree with Jim Thornburg's guidebook. This route is solid 10d in my opinion, and it seems to give shorter climbers a LOT of trouble. I laughed when I grabbed the first scoop and felt how little I had to work with in terms of friction. Stick-clip makes things a lot less stressful.. A very fun route though!! One of my favorites in the Bay Area. Sep 10, 2017