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Hocus
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British R
Avg: 2.1 from 8
votes
Routes in Indian Rock
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Blowing Bubbles S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Brogle T,TR 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Cave Route T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cum Slot T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dismal Abysmal S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Donkey Dong S,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a V1-2 5 |
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High On Testosterone T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hocus S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Jail Bird S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a V4 6B |
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Jail Bird Direct S,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Krokus T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R |
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Puckered Starfish S,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Shag Rug TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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South Face S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Strip Poker S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Tree Route T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Viscious Circles S,TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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| Type: | Sport, TR, 30 ft (9 m) |
| GPS: | 37.23158, -122.09369 |
| FA: | Brad Watson, Aug 18, 1991 |
| Page Views: | 2,788 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Aron Quiter on Jul 6, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am.
Details
Trails close at sunset. Give yourself enough time to be back at your vehicle (or campsite if you're staying at one) before dark, or the rangers will fine you.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Always visit the Castle Rock State Park website parks.ca.gov/?page_id=538 for fairly current official information.
Description
This climb is located directly above Krokus.
The start is from the block with Krokus' top anchors, and a belayer should probably be clipped into these anchors to avoid falling to the bottom of the south side (50+ feet) in the event that the first bolt on the route blows.
This slab climb has an interesting beginning move to get from a large flake onto a slab that has literally no holds on it. Getting from the first to the second bolt is terrifying, and run out. A fall in this area will send you tumbling over the roof, which would not be fun.
The crux seemed to be from above the first bolt to 4 feet shy of the top anchor.
If you don't trust your feet, don't do this climb!
Photos
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