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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Pinto Basin
> OZ Area
> Hollywood Area
> N Hollywood
> Zsa Zsa Gabor Memoria…
Open Container
5.10a YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 1.9 from 8
votes
Routes in Zsa Zsa Gabor Memorial Boulder
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A Trip to the Tip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Assault and Battery TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Godspeed S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Lesbian Lust S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Marsupial Lust S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Open Container T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Right Side Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Secret Treaties T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 30 ft (9 m) |
| FA: | Dave Stoner, Terry McCarthy & Geoff Archer, October 1989 |
| Page Views: | 833 total · 4/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Dec 31, 2005 |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
The northwest face of the Zsa Zsa Gabor Memorial Boulder is where you'll find this short but fun route on excellent rock.
Begin just right of a triangular cutout on the north side of the boulder and lieback/smear your way along a low-angled arete to a creaky stance below a high first bolt. Steep friction on polished rock past the first bolt is the crux with more positive holds soon appearing in time for the small runout to the second bolt. Easy moves lead to the top and the anchors.
Note: The stance below the first bolt is on a creaking flake which doesn't inspire much confidence; although it doesn't seem to move if it breaks off the climb will become much harder. Given 5.8 in the Vogel guide this is definitely harder than that and while short it's worth a spin if in the area. One star out of five.
Begin just right of a triangular cutout on the north side of the boulder and lieback/smear your way along a low-angled arete to a creaky stance below a high first bolt. Steep friction on polished rock past the first bolt is the crux with more positive holds soon appearing in time for the small runout to the second bolt. Easy moves lead to the top and the anchors.
Note: The stance below the first bolt is on a creaking flake which doesn't inspire much confidence; although it doesn't seem to move if it breaks off the climb will become much harder. Given 5.8 in the Vogel guide this is definitely harder than that and while short it's worth a spin if in the area. One star out of five.
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