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Routes in Zsa Zsa Gabor Memorial Boulder

A Trip to the Tip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Assault and Battery TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Godspeed S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lesbian Lust S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marsupial Lust S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Open Container T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right Side Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Secret Treaties T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Dave Stoner, Terry McCarthy & Geoff Archer, October 1989
Page Views: 99 total · 1/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The northwest face of the Zsa Zsa Gabor Memorial Boulder is where you'll find this short but fun route on excellent rock.

Begin just right of a triangular cutout on the north side of the boulder and lieback/smear your way along a low-angled arete to a creaky stance below a high first bolt. Steep friction on polished rock past the first bolt is the crux with more positive holds soon appearing in time for the small runout to the second bolt. Easy moves lead to the top and the anchors.

Note: The stance below the first bolt is on a creaking flake which doesn't inspire much confidence; although it doesn't seem to move if it breaks off the climb will become much harder. Given 5.8 in the Vogel guide this is definitely harder than that and while short it's worth a spin if in the area. One star out of five.

Protection

2 bolts, bolted anchor/rap (all 3/8" bolts)

Photos

Move from the first bolt requires reach to a shallow finger dish on right hand. If you can reach that it's 5.9, if you can't it would be considerably tougher. Entry move and traverse are excellent. Since you came all this way, give it a go. Apr 10, 2007