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Routes in Zsa Zsa Gabor Memorial Boulder

A Trip to the Tip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Assault and Battery TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Godspeed S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lesbian Lust S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Marsupial Lust S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Open Container T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right Side Arete S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Secret Treaties T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: Dave Stoner & Geoff Archer, October 1989
Page Views: 427 total, 3/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2005
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start just right of a triangular cutout at the base of the rock and climb straight up the face using steep smears and tiny handholds on impeccable stone. The crux comes at about two-thirds height as you transition slightly to the right, although it stays independent of either climb all the way to the top. Somewhat reminiscent of the route Obsidian, although easier.

The excellent rock and highly technical moves make this a fun route to do after warming up on Lesbian Lust or one of the other nearby routes. Two, maybe three stars out of five.

Location

Located on the north side of the Zsa Zsa Gabor Memorial Boulder between the Right Side Arete and Open Container.

Protection

Toprope

Photos

Pat C
Honolulu
Pat C   Honolulu
a fun top rope. definitely not 11c on top rope. I'd say it was 11a, on toprope of course. Dec 31, 2009
Comment in Vogel guide is route 'goes up centre of north face'. It took me a bit to realize that was different than the plumb line. The centre line actual angles right of the plumb line off the base. After I recognized that it was only really hard not impossible. Apr 10, 2007