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Routes in Upper Dodge City
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African Queen T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Canadian Driftwood (aka The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Feeling Mary T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Hoosegow, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, 210 ft (64 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 34.08063, -116.14308 |
| FA: | David Cotton & Steve Cotton, 1986 |
| Page Views: | 1,203 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | David Evans on Oct 16, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Climb cracks on the right side of the leaning ramp/pillar to the right of "The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance" until you find yourself in an alcove below a roof. Either exit the left side or directly through the roof (either way is 5.8) and do a slightly improbable traverse right on thin horizontal cracks. Belay on a sloping ledge with a dead Joshua Tree wedged in the crack to your right. Climb the crack to the right and straight up. Lieback and stem the thin crack above passing one bolt (5.10-), continue to the top.
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