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Routes in Upper Dodge City

African Queen T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Canadian Driftwood (aka The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Feeling Mary T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hoosegow, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Lynch Mob S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spaghetti Western S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
String 'em Up S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 210 ft, 2 pitches
FA: David Cotton & Steve Cotton, 1986
Page Views: 456 total, 3/month
Shared By: David Evans on Oct 16, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Climb cracks on the right side of the leaning ramp/pillar to the right of "The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance" until you find yourself in an alcove below a roof. Either exit the left side or directly through the roof (either way is 5.8) and do a slightly improbable traverse right on thin horizontal cracks. Belay on a sloping ledge with a dead Joshua Tree wedged in the crack to your right. Climb the crack to the right and straight up. Lieback and stem the thin crack above passing one bolt (5.10-), continue to the top.

Protection

Standard rack to 3"

Photos

Name: Feeling Mary
FA: David Cotton, Steve Cotton
When: Spring 86

The bolt is stamped "DLC". My brother gave me alot of grief for drilling that bolt, which resulted in the the runouts on TOTDY (AKA Cactus Pete). Nov 4, 2007
Kristian Solem
Monrovia, CA
Kristian Solem   Monrovia, CA
AJ is correct. That is not "The Hoosegow," which is just right of "Spaghetti Western." Jan 13, 2005
This route is "The Hoosegow". It is listed in the Bartlett Indian Cove supplement. First climbed by Kris Solem and (?) Guy Keesee in about 1993 and rated 5.10c. Jan 4, 2005